I'm looking to streamline our paddock setup this season. Right now, the car goes on the main hauler, but the tow vehicle is getting completely trashed and overloaded with all our support gear (extra sets of slicks and wets, nitrogen bottle, heavy tool chests, and multiple VP fuel jugs).

I’m planning to buy a dedicated support trailer just for the pit gear and maybe a pit bike. I'm currently pricing out a standard 6x12 enclosed cargo trailer to use as a blank canvas for this.

For those of you who use a separate smaller trailer for your paddock support:

1. How high up the wall do you mount your E-tracks for tire racks? I want to keep the center of gravity low, but I still need room underneath for rolling tool carts.

2. How are you securing your 5-gallon fuel jugs? Do you build custom wooden racks, or just strap them to the wall tracks?

I'd love to see some photos of the interior of your gear haulers if you have them. Thanks!

Hi does anyone know where I can find the rear bodywork and a complete bi-plane wing with uprights for a 2005 SR8 ?

Any help would be appreciated as I am in South Africa and have no options locally 

I have changed the front sprocket from a 16 tooth to a 15 tooth and now the gear indicator doesn't work because of the change of ratio.  (Hillclimb & Sprint Use)

Unfortunately I did not get any software or programming leads when I purchased the car.  Any help greatly appreciated :)

I have replaced my lower control arm and both heim joints and was curious on your opinion on if it appears the upright might be too tight even if it was torqued to specs. 

Laptop:  http://www.johnclark.ukgo.com/SR8/RPRV8.html

Mobile: http://www.johnclark.ukgo.com/SR8/RPRV8MOBILE.html

Proof reading/comments welcomed...

The issue I am experiencing is that I am not able to shift gears.

The compressor is on and holds pressure, the paddleshifter levers do not initiate any response unless I have the neutral selection button pushed and when that is pushed, you can hear the pop of shifting gears.

I hope I just missed plugging something in during the re-assembly process and is a super easy fix but I have no idea where to start that search.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks!

Bryan

Looking for either a used part, at the very least the center shaft itself would work and I could reuse my ends. 

Now i want to upgrade my gearbox with a flatshifter, im looking for the one from flathifter.com because i want to keep the original shift stick. Any recommendations, tipps, tricks or experiences are welcome ! :)

What also interests me is how your experience are with the original suspension. Mine is the standard not adjustable one (except of the height) and acutally 20 years old (if the last owner didnt refurbished it). How ever, it felt great for me! But i would be very interested about your experiences with this or other suspensions too.

See you guys!

This solution used the same 'safety clips' that hold the wheel hub tie-down restraints during transport... and some old brake cleaner aerosol can lids....

Literally 5 minutes later...  no more mess.

Did some reasearch on the forum but didn't found anything so here I am:

I did a motor swap on my SR3 Clubsport 1300cc for a bike engine, still 1300cc Hayabusa - but 2007 instead of 2003. 

As of now, I have no spark at the plug.  I've tested the coilpack connector and I get no pulse on pin 2 & 3 (pin1 is constant 12v and I assume pin4 is he ground).

I've tested the crank position sensor and I have 233 ohm of resistance and I get 0.3v on VA when I cank it.  Since the spec is 0.3v and more, I wonder is the MBE can give up firing the sparkplug, if the voltage is at 0.3v flat ?

The battery is full and the motor crank very well (I've removed the spark plug to ease it).

Any idea what to test next ? Or should I simply try replacing the CKP first ? 

Thx for your help ! 

/Marco
Radical SR3 Clubsport #00070