I'm trying to rethink my track day logistics. Right now, I'm using an open flatbed trailer for the car, but my truck bed gets completely chaotic with fuel jugs, the quick-lift jack, tool chests, and spare sets of wheels. Plus, I hate leaving expensive tools unsecured in the truck bed overnight at the hotel or while I'm out on the track.

I was thinking about picking up a small, dedicated "pit support" trailer that I could easily tow with a smaller secondary vehicle (or have my track buddy tow behind his SUV).

I've been eyeing a compact 4x8 enclosed setup. It seems small enough to not be a hassle in the paddock, but just big enough to securely lock up the rolling tool cart, a generator, and extra slicks out of the elements. I'm specifically looking at the specs on this Make My Trailer 4x8 enclosed cargo trailer to see if the internal dimensions work for a standard tire rack.

Does anyone run a similar two-trailer setup (one for the car, a micro one for the pit gear)? Just curious if it's worth the extra registration/hassle, or if I should just bite the bullet and buy a massive 24ft enclosed car hauler instead.

Thanks!

Can anyone give me any ideas on what the best options are?

Following up on my thread from last month about building out a 6x12 support trailer. I really appreciated all the layout ideas, but after measuring my side yard and looking at local storage unit prices, I really don't want to pay monthly fees just to store a rolling garage.

It got me thinking about radically downsizing the plan (pun intended!).

Instead of a full walk-in trailer, I'm considering just using a tiny 4x6 cargo trailer (looking at a basic one like this: https://makemytrailer.com/4-x-6-enclosed-cargo-trailer/) to act purely as a waterproof toolbox that I can easily tuck into my home garage.

If I strictly limit myself to the absolute paddock essentials: one spare set of wheels/slicks, a small nitrogen bottle, a low-profile aluminum floor jack, and a basic tool chest... will I regret going this small?

Has anyone here managed to run a successful track weekend out of a "micro" support trailer, or is a 4x6 just too small to be practical when running these cars?

Would love to hear if anyone has pulled off a minimalist setup!

About 5 years ago when my wife and I were looking into starting a track day rental car business using mostly sports racers as or cars we look at the Radical sr1's but they are very far and few in the states. there is pretty much only one dealer in the states that has them the other dealers said they can order us a few if we want but after some thought we decided going with the SR1 would be the best idea. We ended up going with the Rush SR's and I will say that was a mistake for a number of reason.

part of the 5 years we have owned the Rush car we were a dealer for a short part of that time and that too was a big mistake for a number of reasons. 

the Rush SR do sell very well and the Rush spec series is taking off with 30 to 50 cars running at event's. Radical has the sr1 series in the UK but nothing in the states. this has always made me question why?? the SR1's are about the same cost as a rush car they are a far better car. there are SR3 owners selling there cars and buying Rush SR's to run a the spec series because of the lower running cost and lower cost of the Rush cars. the SR1's are a perfect car for a feeder series to more powerful SR3's and other sports racing classes. If you also take into consideration of people with brand loyalty that start out in a SR1 they may also want to move up to the SR3 series ? so the question is why hasn't Radical or the Radical dealer in the states offering anything like Rush does?   

Hi does anyone know where I can find the rear bodywork and a complete bi-plane wing with uprights for a 2005 SR8 ?

Any help would be appreciated as I am in South Africa and have no options locally 

I have changed the front sprocket from a 16 tooth to a 15 tooth and now the gear indicator doesn't work because of the change of ratio.  (Hillclimb & Sprint Use)

Unfortunately I did not get any software or programming leads when I purchased the car.  Any help greatly appreciated :)

I have replaced my lower control arm and both heim joints and was curious on your opinion on if it appears the upright might be too tight even if it was torqued to specs. 

I have a dual tube bleed bottle + pressure bleeder and i'm not sure if i'm doing something wrong. My master cylinders are on the RHS (UK) and so I start from the RR and work my way clockwise round to the FR. I open both nipples on each caliper at the same time and using the pressure bleeder, im' finding that i can never seem to get both sides of the caliper showing no air bubbles through the tubes, there always seems to be one side that shows a single small bubble every few seconds and its consistent. 

I went round the car twice because the first time round the brakes felt ultra soft so figured i'd done something wrong, pumped the brakes a number of times (holding clutch in), and repeated the bleed procedure again. The pedal does feel better now but I just don't know if it's definitely correct or not. If I stamp on the brake and use all my strength I am reading 40-43 bar at the Front. 

Am i doing this right, or is there something inherent with the nipple or caliper design that means I will always see this consistent air bubble appearing as  a  constant stream on each caliper? 

i can't think of a better way to do this on my own.