The issue I am experiencing is that I am not able to shift gears.

The compressor is on and holds pressure, the paddleshifter levers do not initiate any response unless I have the neutral selection button pushed and when that is pushed, you can hear the pop of shifting gears.

I hope I just missed plugging something in during the re-assembly process and is a super easy fix but I have no idea where to start that search.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks!

Bryan

Looking for either a used part, at the very least the center shaft itself would work and I could reuse my ends. 

Now i want to upgrade my gearbox with a flatshifter, im looking for the one from flathifter.com because i want to keep the original shift stick. Any recommendations, tipps, tricks or experiences are welcome ! :)

What also interests me is how your experience are with the original suspension. Mine is the standard not adjustable one (except of the height) and acutally 20 years old (if the last owner didnt refurbished it). How ever, it felt great for me! But i would be very interested about your experiences with this or other suspensions too.

See you guys!

This solution used the same 'safety clips' that hold the wheel hub tie-down restraints during transport... and some old brake cleaner aerosol can lids....

Literally 5 minutes later...  no more mess.

Did some reasearch on the forum but didn't found anything so here I am:

I did a motor swap on my SR3 Clubsport 1300cc for a bike engine, still 1300cc Hayabusa - but 2007 instead of 2003. 

As of now, I have no spark at the plug.  I've tested the coilpack connector and I get no pulse on pin 2 & 3 (pin1 is constant 12v and I assume pin4 is he ground).

I've tested the crank position sensor and I have 233 ohm of resistance and I get 0.3v on VA when I cank it.  Since the spec is 0.3v and more, I wonder is the MBE can give up firing the sparkplug, if the voltage is at 0.3v flat ?

The battery is full and the motor crank very well (I've removed the spark plug to ease it).

Any idea what to test next ? Or should I simply try replacing the CKP first ? 

Thx for your help ! 

/Marco
Radical SR3 Clubsport #00070

I have a dual tube bleed bottle + pressure bleeder and i'm not sure if i'm doing something wrong. My master cylinders are on the RHS (UK) and so I start from the RR and work my way clockwise round to the FR. I open both nipples on each caliper at the same time and using the pressure bleeder, im' finding that i can never seem to get both sides of the caliper showing no air bubbles through the tubes, there always seems to be one side that shows a single small bubble every few seconds and its consistent. 

I went round the car twice because the first time round the brakes felt ultra soft so figured i'd done something wrong, pumped the brakes a number of times (holding clutch in), and repeated the bleed procedure again. The pedal does feel better now but I just don't know if it's definitely correct or not. If I stamp on the brake and use all my strength I am reading 40-43 bar at the Front. 

Am i doing this right, or is there something inherent with the nipple or caliper design that means I will always see this consistent air bubble appearing as  a  constant stream on each caliper? 

i can't think of a better way to do this on my own. 

What details do we know about the SR3 driveshafts? Particulary the right side longer one. I need to re-build it from my mishap last year and the shaft is cocked and locked sideways in the CV joint so I am thinking something will need to be replaced.