When selecting a trailer it is important to note that because Radicals have the engine in the back they tend to sit forward in a trailer. When I load my SR3 into my trailer (Pace American 20' enclosed car hauler) I found that the best position was to have the SR3's engine roughly centered between the two trailer wheels. For me this provided just enough tongue weight.
So when selecting a trailer it is good to know that the nose will be~9' in front of the center of the trailer wheels. Of course this will be slightly different for each trailer design, but it should be a good start when selecting a trailer.
What have other peoples experiences been when loading their cars? Post some pictures of loading your car and also when it is loaded.
Charley
Here are some pictures of my set up.
Following Charlie's lead, I purchased a 20' enclosed LOOK trailer, a set of 10' RaceRamps and also a wirelessly controlled winch (for a UTV).
Instead of relying on the four floor mounted rings that come in the trailer I put E-Track down both sides fore and aft of the wheel wells. This allows for much more adjustment and flexibility in tying things in place.
I've found that if I put the leading edge of the front splitter even with the forward edge of the door/door step the trailer balance is perfect and it gives just enough room for the Race Ramps to be stored behind the Radical.
Without the trailer attached, you can load/unload but be prepared for the tongue of the trailer to get extremely light (i.e. don't be standing in the trailer behind the wheels whilst loading)
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming 'WOW-What a Ride!'"
How did you charge the battery for your winch that is sitting in the trailer?
I have a similar winch setup. So far I just charge the battery after the weekend. I do plan on wiring the battery into the trailer so that it can be charged and run the interior lights. One of my concerns is over taxing the truck alternator if it is trying to charge a low trailer battery. One solution is to regulate the current, there are a few devices that will accomplish this. RVi towed Battery Charger
Maybe I'll get to this early next year.
PS the 10' race ramps are the "cats meow"
How did you charge the battery for your winch that is sitting in the trailer?
Start out by getting a deep cycle marine/RV battery (available at any auto parts store). The tend to hold a charge longer and not succumb to a lack of charging or intermediate charges like a normal battery will.
I wired into the 7 pin plug. There’s a +12v lead built in, that will charge anytime your plugged in. As long as the battery isn’t completely flat, it won’t tax your tow vehicle’s charging system at all.
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming 'WOW-What a Ride!'"
Any hints on fixing the winch to the trailer frame? Not sure if it needs to be welded with angle iron, bolted through the existing frame or U-bolted?
Bolts through the floor with either large flat washers or a couple of pieces of 1-2” wide metal strap as a backing plate on the underside of the flooring will suffice. The Radicals are light and pulling them up a shallow incline doesn’t put much of a load on the winch at all.
Look at UTV winches and get one with nylon cording instead of steel cable and a wireless remote (receiver mounted as high on the wall as possible for best reception - lesson learned, mine needs to be relocated).
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058KJ1G6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming 'WOW-What a Ride!'"
My trailer doesn't seem to as organized as the rest of you, I seem to carry the kitchen sink.
My trailer has a under center spar so I put a 2" bumper receiver upside down on the floor using long bolts and two plates making a U clamp.
https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Fab-Products-35-946401-Receiver-Adapter/dp/B009XOTRBM
ATV winch mount so I can move the winch around 2" receiver to receiver or stow. My son recognized the remote cable as mic wire so I bought an extension cord to make full trailer length. Heard bad things about the wireless ones.
Using a marine battery and quick connect welding cables so it's all portable to my son's open trailer to recover his track car if necessary.
Turning money into smoke and noise since 2005
I've spent too many times with a dead battery at the track. I've done the marine battery, plus connect to the trucks charging circuit, etc., but I was tired of worrying if I had enough battery to load at the end of the day/weekend (of course I was loading 3600 lb Corvettes, so maybe this doesn't apply so much to the lightweight Rad's...).
My current setup is to use the truck's battery to run the winch. I use Anderson connectors, plus long 00 battery cables run from the battery down the frame rails to the rear bumper of my truck. I connect a jumper cable from there to the trailer when loading / unloading. I hitch up, put the truck in Park, connect the trailer, and load away. No dead battery ever this way. 🙂
Bonus: make another cable that can connect to the bumper connecter with jumper cable clamps on the other end, and you don't even have to open the hood when jump-starting another vehicle.
