Update: I solved the problem with my intermittent blipper. Please read this thread if you have intermittent blipper problems.
Hi Charley, it works for maybe 1 out of 15 downshifts. I talked to Geartronics and they said to check the wiring. It looks like the connector came loose at one point because it is zip tied to the solenoid. I’m going to hook 12v direct to the solenoid when I get home and see if it activates, then take apart the connector to inspect the female ends as they are hidden in the connector and hook them up to a 12v LED and see if the signal is going to the solenoid from the GCU. Fortunately all the downshifting I tried was under 3k and was just for testing as I had the car up in the air. My GCU is the old open loop system so it should blip with every downshift no matter what RPM.
@crit, It is likely the connection. It is fairly common for the wires to brake or partially brake where they are soldered to the blipper. If it continues to up shift but won't downshift it likely means that the blipper isn't being activated. One way to test it is to try down shifting with the clutch in. If it will shift that way it means that the blipper isn't activating. Also you should be able to hear and see the blipper activate. My bet is that you have a loose or broken wire. Here are a few pictures that might help you see what is going on.
Here is the overall view that shows the wire connections.
The block / solenoid pulls off of the blipper to make it easier to work on.
The inside of the blipper is pretty basic.
@charleyhradicalsportscarregistry-com
Thanks for the great pictures Charley! my wife's home late from the gym today and the last time I tried to remove the rear clam by myself I hurt my back so have to hold off till tomorrow. Geartronics told me it's just a standard industrial solenoid and valve on top of the blipper assembly so if they are bad, probably won't be too big of a deal to source. it shifted perfectly when I used the clutch and even shifted fine without the clutch, scary as I know it was probably jamming it into gear since the blipper wasn't working.
@crit, Here is a picture of the writing on the solenoid / block. This may be helpful if you do need a new one. But hopefully you wind that it is a simple broken wire.
Charley
@charleyhradicalsportscarregistry-com
Looked up that coil, it’s a 24V AC coil. The number on my coil is DD-042 which is a 12V DC coil.
Update: I hooked 12V to the lugs of the coil and the blipper activated even with reduced tank pressure. Tonight I’m going to cut off the coil harness plug and put some female spade terminals on the wires and put them directly on the coil to see if it was that connection that was bad. Also I ordered a spare valve/solenoid/coil assembly from Univer through their distributor Radwell in the USA. The shipping time from Univer in Italy is 4-6 weeks. $50 including shipping. I figured it would be good to have a spare. Here are the Univer part numbers for the coil and valve:
Valve: A-102N
Coil: DD-042
Manny of MS racing posted a blipper for sale earlier and they also had the same part numbers so these should work on the GEN1 SR3 as well as the later GEN2 SR3 RS.
@Crit, It is interesting that the my RS and your SS used different parts. Does your car have the 12V (one battery) power system or the 24V (two batteries) system?
Charley
@charleyhradicalsportscarregistry-com I have the single 12 volt battery. Even if you have the 24 volt system, that relay is designed for alternating current I'm guessing that the direct current also is able to activate it.
@crit, That is interesting. Yes, my car has the 24 volt system. It is odd that the the coil is designed for an AC system, but that is what was on my car and it worked perfectly. I don't know if Manny @msracing had a 12v or 24v system in his car. I suspect (but don't know for sure) that the part is different depending on the cars voltage system.
Charley
Problem solved, directly connecting the wires to the solenoid took care of the issue. Now the blipper activates consistently. The problem was the connector block that screws into the bottom of the solenoid, I cut that out and threw it away. On an additional note, Geartronics sent me the software to be able to adjust the GCU. I was able to adjust the max downshift RPM so it won't over-rev. So grateful that feature was incorporated into the older open loop system.
That is great news! I am glad to hear that you have it working again! When you have a chance it would be great if you added a post to in the "How To / DIY" section showing how you adjusted the GCU Downshift RPM.
Also I would be interested in getting a copy of the Geartornics software just in case others need it in the future.
Thanks,
Charley
@charleyhradicalsportscarregistry-com
Hi Charley, no DIY necessary for adjusting the RPM downshift threshold, it has a slider bar in the software and is clearly labeled. Please PM me your email address so I can send you the .exe file.
