I seem to have a problem with applying the throttle during heavy braking. I have tried adjusting the brake pedal back and the throttle forward. Rebuilt the brake system. Added a heel stop. Next is trying to firm up the pedal with bleeding, but both MC seem to be moving the same distance.
The car is an SR1 with a manual gear change, (no paddle shifter) so I heel/toe the down shifts. The pedal box is tight, but I am not wearing clown shoes.
How are people setting the pedals up? maybe a photo would help.
Are you saying that you are unintentionally hitting the throttle under hard braking? Or are you having problems heal toeing? I have experienced the problem of unintentionally hitting the throttle while braking in the SR3. It is very unsettling when you are pressing the brake and the car tries to accelerate. Are you using a driving shoe? I have big feet (size 11.5 wide) and have had good luck with Puma driving shoes. Even with driving shoes and adjusting the pedal, every time I hit the brakes hard I am consciously thinking about making sure my foot is so far over that it is touching the steering shaft. I know that if my clown foot is touching the steering shaft that I won’t hit the throttle while braking. I’m not sure if the steering shaft is in the same place in the SR1, but give it a try and see if that helps.
Charley
I am unintentionally pushing the throttle when hard braking. in some brake zones getting about 23% throttle. (I have all the data).
I am really trying to get my brain to move my foot over as far as it will go. The first part of a race, my foot follows instructions, but gets it own ideas as time and speed progress.
the SR1 with RH driving position, the pedals are more to the center of the car and the steering shaft is not in the way
Like you I wear Pumas'.
Here are a couple of pictures to help visualize what happens with the SR3. You can see that the steering column is between the clutch and brake pedals. As mentioned in my previous post I had to train my brain to move my foot all the way over to the point that it hits the steering column during heavy braking. I also added a picture of my driving shoe showing where it rests on the steering column. Can you post a picture of the set up on the SR1?
Charley
Well, when I rebuilt the calipers, I used the Miller red rubber grease for brake systems on the piston seals. Turns out the pistons welded themselves to the seals. So as the pads wore, the pedal got longer!
I had to cap off the calipers at the banjo fitting. After I did that the pedal only moved about 1/2" before it went solid.
I reconnected the calipers, bled them again, same 2-1/2" pedal travel.
Removed the front pads on one side, watched the pistons when the pedal was pressed and released, the pistons moved out, then went back in! I had to stand on the pedal to get them to move out.
So now I am disassembling the calipers, clean them, relube with a silicone based lube (DC111). And see what happens. (I had to use a grease gun to push the pistons out. )
I have rebuilt many brake calipers over 40+ years as a DIY guy. I was taught (apprenticed as a Ferrari mechanic) to never use any lube other than brake fluid. You may have destroyed those new seals with the incompatibility of the lube. So I would replace with a 2nd set of new seals and only install wet with brake fluid. I have never used anything else on brake seals. I would also, since you are in there, have a close look at the calipers to make sure there isn't any spread of caliper out of spec which could cause other issues with pad taper and have a good look at the wheel bearings on the spindle as well as any additional caliper mount on the spindle/upright. Any problems in those things can cause weird brake problems.
As to your reach during heel/toe often in streetcars we have to add to the throttle for the blade our the foot. I suppose you could cut the SR1 throttle and make it less wide. Sometimes all you need is just a bit and it make s all the difference in the world. The vertical support tube supporting the throttle is away from the brake pedal so it looks like you could cut the throttle easy and not hurt its integrity.
The problem was long brake pedal travel, (see my brake post in SR1). The pedal was going so far past the throttle that I had to have my foot perfect and then the throttle was about 1" higher than the brake pedal. Also with the stiff pistons, it took about 25% more pedal pressure to get the same clamping/braking force, so I was stamping on the pedal even more. So with that fixed, we will see how that goes. Now with the same brake psi, my foot is way above the throttle pedal.
Weird? So you were way below the throttle pedal at full braking. Then you did a caliper piston change and now you are way above the throttle pedal at full braking? That makes for a H/T nightmare. I guess my 1st thought is are you sure the brakes are now 100%? I would want zero faults there then work on pedal positions.
I keep going out and sitting in the car and playing. So far, the pedal has been firm. I don't think the brakes were ever this firm since I got the car. I think it will take a little exploration so that I don't lock the wheels until i get used to them. Now I can feel the brakes starting to work with just the slightest hand force on the pedal. of course this is all in the garage, the real test will be at the end of the month at the track. The only thing I am worried about might be pad knock back on track. the Heel/Toe should be much better now.
After the weekend, I can say the brakes are 500% better! Much more sensitive to the pedal. A quick look at the data shows much less pressure for the same deceleration G's.
Mostly zero overlap, only 1% if any in racing conditions. And I think that if I can stay focused on my feet, that can be eliminated.
Great news! Glad to hear that you solved the problem. Thanks for the update.
Charley
