SR3 RSX charging issues

Hi Rob,

Re 3 above... have a look through this link.  The Staubli fittings fitted at the factory are very expensive, so some people have found alternative Jiffy-Tite fittings... they seems to be OK 

https://radicalsportscarregistry.com/radicalforum/general-discussion/struggling-to-find-the-fuel-out-sample-connector/#post-6418

Hi Again Rob,

Re 1 and 2...

1)

I suspect the connector you mention that you have cleaned is the one that regularly gets soaked in oil.  It's down near the gear change solenoid box right on the main engine bay loom on the left hand side.  If not, then that's definitely worth doing.  

There is a fuse in the charging loom (30A I think?)... have you checked that?.  Its in the main loom connection to the battery terminals... I have had that fail before (I think from cranking the car too long when I had another issue and the car wouldn't start).  While I was troubleshooting that I was told if the fuse wasn't blown (it was), then the next thing to do was test the Generator output (sounds like you've done that) and then change the 'charging loom' (which I didn't have to do in the end.)  I think its a relatively short part of the loom that included that fuse and the battery terminals, etc.  So that might be the next step if your fuse is OK?

2)

The 'large connector' on the sidepod isn't a factory part (at least wasn't on my RSX).  It's most likely a 35A 'Anderson Plug' and is likely connected to the second battery in the sidepod (the 2nd 12v battery that makes the total starting circuit voltage 24v).  I have just replicated that arrangement on my main battery in the engine bay.  By doing that it prevents you having to do exactly what you are explaining about taking off the rubber strap and battery cover to access the terminals.  Instead, you simply make up a new set of battery wires (with crimped M6 terminal lugs to go straight onto the battery terminals) and then run another 35A Anderson Plug to the outside bodywork somewhere convenient (I ran mine straight up the firewall and put the Anderson Plug on the flat part of the bodywork immediately behind the seat in that area under the roll hoop near the bodywork clip, but out of the way enough to not interfere with removing the rear bodywork.)

Once you have done that you can use any battery charger (with an adaptor to make the end an Anderson connector) to charge either battery.

An added bonus is if you use large enough gauge wires to you main battery - you can also use this Anderson plug as a 'jump starter' if you ever have a battery too flat to start your car. 

Thanks for the prompt reply Rod.

Question for you (and the Radical community) - how do you access the side pod battery? Take off the side pod? I have never taken off the side pod so is there any thing I should be aware of? I see the clip on the side and front of the pod.

Thanks

Rob

@l8-apxr ... G'day Again Rob,

There is a 'hatch' that can be removed inside the RSX sidepod - simply remove three or four small bolts and then the front ende swings out and the whole hatch slides back to come loose.  Gives you access into the 'starting helper-battery'... but not much else as there isn't much room)

To remove the sidepod - from memory there are;

- three clips along the outside (top edge of the side-pods)

- three bolts along the bottom inside edge (that screw into tapped holes in the lower chassis rail)

- the support 'hanger' that is bolted through the bottom of the rear end of the sidepod and runs up to the to chassis rail in the engine bay (M6 bolts top and bottom)

- there is the M6 bolt that screws in to the main cockpit surround (visible when the rear engine cover is removed on the top rear end of the sidepod - screws through a triangular plate that is part of the cockpit surround)

- there's normally a zip-tie that holds the water pump into a saddle in the bottom of the sidepod - cut this zip-tie and check the pump can move a bit.

The process is normally to raise the car up to get access to bolts underneath (I normally put mine on my 'service stands' which raises the car about 450mm... but you only need enough to get to the bolts really).  Once the car is raised remove all four wheels (gives easier access and makes it possible to pull sidepod back/out).  I find cardboard boxes or similar to sit under the sidepods at each end.  It's best if you have a helper, but even then the boxes/supports under each end of the sidepod will just let you sit it in roughly the same location without having to hold it for too long (it's not heavy - just awkward).  If you're not planning on draining your coolant, and removing the hoses and leaving the radiator in the sidepod, then you have to undo a few smaller (M6 I think?) bolts in the bottom and top of the sidepod that holds the radiator in place.  If you have a fan installed on the radiator that will stay with it so nothing to undo there normally.  Assuming you are going to leave the radiator full and not remove the hoses, etc, then you basically have to slide the sidepod "back and out" of the sidepod.  It's a little hard to explain, but it's pretty obvious when your looking at it.  The radiator basically doesn't move (in fact you need to be careful not to move it to much).  This is the bit where having a helper makes a big difference!  As you slide the sidepod 'back and out' the support you had underneath the rear of the sidepod can be put under the radiator (that means it's not just hanging in space with all the weight on the silicon hoses, etc).

You will probably be surprised by how much debris is inside the sidepod (between the inner and outer layer and in front of the radiator!)

While you have it off, there is one more thing I strongly recommend you do.  The air receiver for the Life Gear Change Unit has a drain bung in the bottom (female hex head screw with a rubber o-ring on it).  Take that out and drain all condensate from the air receiver... you might be surprised by how much is in there... particularly if it has maybe NEVER been serviced!!??   To help with this in the future, I drilled a hole (about 30mm diameter) in the bottom of my sidepod to allow access to this with a long allen key that allows this to be removed and water drained after every few race meetings.. water comes out every time.  If the receiver gets too full then that water can end up in your solenoid block... not good!  And since water is uncompressible - it also basically reduces the effective capacity of your reservoir too... not good.

(what beggars belief is that on the XX and later chassis' Radical have laid this reservoir on it's side!... which means you have to take it off its mounting bracket to drain it!!... FFS)

I've probably missed something... but when I did this the first time I didn't have any help or instructions... so I'm sure this will get you started and others might add/subtract what I have cocked up.  

Thanks RB.

I removed the inspection panel on the left side and found an empty space where the second battery could be installed. I also checked the starter motor which had 12 volt on the sticker just below the part number. I am sure the car is 12 volt with just one battery on the fire wall in front of the engine. That also means that the plug on the side pod should charge the one and only battery. I'll confirm when I put the car back together in the next couple of days.

I will also check the charging on the battery from the engine after cleaning all the electrical plugs, checking the fuses (there are two - one big one and one "normal" size one), and replacing the rectifier.

I still have some fiberglass work on the front and rear splitters (spun on my warm up lap last time at Sebring and damaged the splitters) so should be ready to try out everything in a couple of weeks.

Rob