Hello everyone
Although I have owned my Radical SR3 since 2011 (The car is a 2007 model with an RS body kit), I am new to the forum and would love to benefit from your experiences. I only need my car for track days.
Now I need to overhaul my 1500cc Gen1 engine and am considering having a spin-save clutch installed. The aim is to prevent damage to the starter and transmission in the event of spins
I have now read the following in a technical bulletin (TB021 001) from Radical:
IN THE EVENT OF A SPIN (With OR Without a Spin-Safe Clutch)
IF the clutch is not depressed and the engine spins backwards, there is a “good” chance that the starter
and opposing gear have been damaged. IF there is any doubt over whether or not this has occurred, DO
NOT start the engine, Call Crown immediately. (Starting or attempting to start the engine could cause
significant damage to the internal workings of the engine)
What does “a good chance” of damage despite the spin-save clutch mean?
Is it worth installing the spin-save clutch in this case?
Thank you very much for your input.
René Widmer
Hi René,
I have two cars and both now have spin safe clutches installed. For track day use they would be fantastic and I would recommend them to anyone. The only thing to take care of is that they need to have their adjustment checked (measured as 'free-play gain' in their instructions) after every couple of hours of use. I normally check mine each day I'm at the track. It doesn't take long once you have the process understood.
I would ignore the comment you quoted about risking damage after a spin with a 'spin-safe' clutch... there is a very low risk of any damage once you understand how these clutches work. The main thing to do during a spin is to get your foot off the throttle and let the engine rpm drop back under around 3000rpm. That's when the Rekluse EXP clutch assembly disengages and opens the clutch plates. If your were silly enough to keep your foot buried in the throttle for too long during your spin, then the engine may not have time to drop it's rpm before the momentum of the car (now going backwards) causes the driveline to run in reverse. A small chance of this happening... but very small in my opinion.
I race my cars and they are a little less suited to that, due to our race series here in Tasmanian including 'standing race starts'. The spin-safe clutch gives reliable/repeatable starts... but they aren't as fast as a manual clutch for race starts... but as I said above, for track days they are perfect.
Thanks, Rod. That makes perfect sense to me.
Another question: a while ago, you were asking about the manufacturer of the SR3 steering rack. Did you find what you were looking for? I need to replace mine.
@rene-widmer … no I didn’t find the OEM… but I did get some details on a ‘service kit’ for them. From memory Josh Smith at RJMotorsports in the UK could get them. I’m away from home right now but could get some details tomorrow if you need more info.
As a new SR3 1500 owner coming from GT cars, one of the first things I did was install a spin safe clutch. I purchased the kit from Rekluse and did the install myself which is a very easy process. I am early in my learning curve with the Radical (I spin on occasion) and the peace of mind with the spin safe is great. I do not worry about jumping on the clutch in a spin and can focus on controlling the car so I don't hit anything or anyone. I think if you will never race, I would run a spin safe all of the time and if you race and never do standing starts, i would still run the spin safe.
I echo Rod's comments about staying on the adjustment which is also very easy once you understand the thinking behind and operation of the clutch.
The only downside is that the car can roll when left in gear because it is not actually in gear when the engine is off. Once you get used to it, its not a big deal just keep wheel choks close and toss them under the wheels as you get out of the car. Yet another benefit of the light weight - it would be a pain with a big heavy car.
Thanks Bryan for your detailed explanations.
Sounds perfect. So I'll definitely get the spin save clutch. It will give me a better feeling.
Hello Rod
I would like to mention the Spin Safe clutch again.
I have now prepared my engine to send it to RLM in England for overhaul.
I asked them about a Spin Safe clutch and received the following reply:
The clutch needs regularly adjustment and the plates need replacing more often. As a result we just advise that the customer carries a spare starter motor. The price of the Suzuki starter has dropped a lot recently, you can be 4/5 of these for the price of the clutch!
Question for you:
1. Have you had the same experience with clutch wear, even when it is correctly adjusted?
2. Can I change the clutch on the SR3 without removing the engine?
Thank you for your reply.
René
Hello Bryan
Same question to you:
would like to mention the Spin Safe clutch again.
I have now prepared my engine to send it to RLM in England for overhaul.
I asked them about a Spin Safe clutch and received the following reply:
The clutch needs regularly adjustment and the plates need replacing more often. As a result we just advise that the customer carries a spare starter motor. The price of the Suzuki starter has dropped a lot recently, you can be 4/5 of these for the price of the clutch!
Question for you:
1. Have you had the same experience with clutch wear, even when it is correctly adjusted?
2. Can I change the clutch on the SR3 without removing the engine?
Thank you for your reply.
René
I found clutch installation straightforward and pretty easy. You do not have to pull the motor to work on the clutch; you have to remove the diffuser and drain the oil but that is not a challenge either.
I cannot speak to the long term durability of the clutch as I have only had mine installed for a half-season. I found it invaluable as I am learning the car - I have spun several times and my starter is a-okay. I understand the argument that you can buy 4 starters for the price of a spin safe BUT what is the cost if you really chew up the starter and dump metal in to the motor? Then that "savings" evaporates!
If you have driven downforce / aero cars before maybe you do not need it; maybe it is unnecessary if you are not pushing hard and just DE'ing and having fun. I am trying to catch up to all of the other Radicals I am on track with and am chasing lap times - I am pushing hard (too hard sometimes and spin). I am early on the learning curve so the peace of mind is huge for me.
As I said, I purchased the clutch directly from Rekluse and saved a good amount of money plus I did the install myself so those two things brought my cost WAY down. I am in to the clutch for approx. $1,500 USD.
