A friend of mine has an old Ralt Formula Atlantic car converted with a Gen 2 Hayabusa engine. He purchased a Quaife differential like the ones found in a SR3. He would like pictures of the mounting of the diff in a Radical. Also if anyone has pictures of the coupler used to mate the Hayabusa to the Quaife.
Thanks,
neil
hey Neil Radical makes a drive hub ,, it is 2 haves and have round teflon drive pins between them.. the one on the they are pricing.. around 600-700 each from radical its important that he be specific if he has a gun 1 or get 2 motor. or he can contact Richard at Rilltech racing in Colorado .. he maybe able to help...
regards Manny
Thx Manny
We have the coupler, does anyone have pictures mounted in the car? Seems to me it has to be offset from the engine quite a bit.
Here is a shot of it in the car.
Here is a top view. After a bit of rain it had some surface rust that was later removed.
Here are the rear and side views
This diagram should be helpful also
Another thing I should point out is that Radical made a change to the engine mounting system a few years ago which is highly recommended to use. In this picture you can see a black machined part that helps transfer the loads more efficiently from the engine and the chassis. I believe you would also need the later styled engine mount.
Charley
Thanks, Charlie. That's interesting. I wonder if they saw cracks or failures in the Hayabusa's rear mounting tabs and thought the extra braces would help spread the load.
Can you tell me, are the engine and differential separately mounted rigidly to the chassis (in a way that holds the two in the correct relationship to each other)?
That is my current plan. I'm mounting the engine rigidly in the chassis, and will then position the gearbox and build rigid mounts for it, taking care to make sure the coupling halves are in line.
Yes, they are each separately mounted rigidly to the chassis.
Charley
New question: Is a special sprocket nut or socket needed? There isn't much room for a normal 36mm socket to fit within the coupler. I purchased a thin wall socket but there's still a lot of interference.
We're wondering if Radical might have used something like a 12 point jet nut or something.
I'll try to take and post a picture here later tonight.
We use a 36mm 12 point socket but have to turn down the outside to make it fit.
Torque to 115ft/lbs with green Loctite.
Don't forget the locking screws as well.
Thanks, Dan. Perfect.
But I'm not sure I'm familiar with the locking screws. Can you elaborate?
Hard to tell with yours actually but the Gen 2 coupling normally has space for two small screws down either side of the nut to lock it in place, looks like yours may not have that so in that case it is an M8 counter sunk bolt and tampered washer to lock things in place.
Need to make sure you have the correct input shaft in the drive unit for this though as early ones would then mean that the drive unit does not fit in place (which is why they changed to the locking screws)
