This is the link to the Rekluse installation manual:
it is page 17 that states:
b) With the O-ring showing, use a 4 mm Allen wrench to
turn the adjuster screw clockwise until it stops under
light pressure. This is your “starting point.”
I would change the language from "light pressure" to "medium pressure"
and what is about this:
Check the clutch pedal travel, it MUST NOT exceed 15mm, this could cause damage to the clutch.
Does that mean that the first thing I have to do is limit the clutch pedal travel in the footwell of the car to 15 mm?
And only then start with the other settings?
@rene-widmer No, you do not limit the clutch pedal travel. I suggest you read the installation manual several times and watch the videos referenced in the instructions. What is being referenced in the comment about 15mm clutch travel is the free play gain. This will make more sense after you watch the videos and read the manual a few times.
@brewerbry ... good advice. It takes a while to get used to setting the free play gain, and watching the video and reading the instructions many time helps.
I developed a way of checking the free play gain without taking the front bodywork off the car. This made it easier to do during each race event. To do this I would sit in the car with the engine running (normally after every second race while the engine was still at full operating temp and it was idling in the pits). I have a piece of white tape on the fibreglass lump that separates the driver and passenger seats and use this as a measurement reference (it's next to my upper thigh when I'm in the car). I would use my toes on the left foot to put light pressure on the centre of the clutch pedal 'pad' (just enough to take any 'slack' out of the pedal mechanism, but not enough to actually depress the clutch master cylinder) and then, using an 8m tape measure would hook the end of the tape measure over the top of the pedal (that's why you have to use your toes on the lower part of the pedal 'pad') and extend it out so that it sits on the white tape. It doesn't matter what that measurement is as it's just a reference. Then, I blip the throttle (enough to get the EXP disk in the Rekluse clutch to engage - so at least >4000 rpm) which causes the EXP disc to expand and allows the 'Free Play Gain' to be measured at the pedal... although now with the tape measure in place I can read how far the pedal moves by reading how far it moved relative to the white tape on the seat. Works OK 50% of the time. That just means you normally had to blip the throttle a few times to make sure you were getting consistent measurements. This whole process only took about 2 minutes in total. I was OK with anything around 9-13mm, and would adjust if it was outside that. My clutch lasted around 20 hours (engine run time) and I think we adjusted it about 4 or 5 times in that whole period. The only real worn parts when I inspected it was the 'teflon pads' on the EXP disk. I bought a spare set of these when I bought my clutch and they were easy to change over. When I did that I also purchased another full EXP disk as a spare... my thinking was that if ever I had to do something at the track it would be quicker to replace the whole EXP disc.
I am impressed and grateful for all the help I am receiving here.
I am impressed and grateful for all the help I am receiving here.
I am negatively surprised by the durability of the clutch (20 hours). I have never changed the clutch on my SR3 1500cc since the last overhaul. And that's certainly 80 hours. Well, I don't race, so I don't do standing starts. Is that the reason?
@rene-widmer … I suspect so. Once you’re moving the EXP disk doesn’t do much and the clutch is effectively the same as stock. The Series I race in has fairly short sprint races each lasting about 15 minutes. So in 20 hours (probably around 12 hours loaded) would be 40+ race starts. This feels about right as it was 3 seasons of 4 rounds, each with 4 races.
If you are just doing track days, etc and using it idle though the pits and accelerate away once on the track I think you will easily see 40+ hours (engine rebuild time in a raced 1500) and if your getting 80 hours you probably aren't running it that hard!
