Baseline setup

@e-j-scott Hi E.J., Here's your starting setup from the Gen3 User's Manual (assuming you're using Hankook slicks):

Oh, one more thing: I've been running 26psi tire pressure lately. 

Mr. Parsons,

Fabulous, thank you! I'd discovered and read this manual just recently. Have you found your baseline setup to remain relatively close to this factory recommendation?

Also, if I may trouble you, do you have any pointers for things to watch for/avoid on these little monsters? Any tuning tips for a newbie owner? I've read they're very twitchy and unforgiving...then I've read they're very stable and predictable. Thoughts?

Lastly, any guidance on converting the dash to Fahrenheit?

I really appreciate your responding, thank you!

E. J.

@e-j-scott Hi E. J.,

Twitchy, no. Unforgiving: yes! I assume your car came with dual front dive planes. Running with both dive planes gives the car a pointy front and a loose rear. You should remove at least the top one. That pushes the downforce further back and will give the car a more neutral feel, and gives you a chance at catching a spin. If you watch any of the top teams in Radical Cup, you'll see most of them run with just one (or even zero) front dive planes.

In my experience, adding more rear downforce by adjusting the wing angle just increases your lap times, with no seeming benefit in cornering speed. Hopefully others will chime in with their thoughts. I'm happy to give you my wing hole settings if you want. I usually run at Sebring (and COTA) and those long straights really punish too much drag!

I'm the wrong guy to ask about Fahrenheit. I've converted my whole life to metric. (all our vehicles, phones, etc.) It makes our families crazy when we give them Celsius temps, lol. We spend a lot of time in Europe, and I make a bit of retirement money tuning cars. And since all modern cars use metric parameters, I had to get with the program. 

John

Mr. Parsons,

Again, THANK YOU! I really appreciate the tips.

Frankly, when I signed up on this site I didn't realize there's almost no action here. It's a bit saddening as it's a nice site! Since you're the only person responding I'd like to connect with you directly as opposed to having to go through the log-in process (prove I'm not a robot) every time. If this is a possibility for you please respond directly at JohnScottMotorsports@gmaoil.com. If not I understand.

Thanks for your help! Greatly appreciated.

E. J.

@e-j-scott 

I have not driven an SR8, but on my SR3 I like and use the factory settings for ride height, rake, camber, tow.  At the track it is easy to fine tune tire pressure, damper, and wing.  So I would suggest starting with the factory settings until you are familiar with the car.

When I first drove an SR3, I was a little surprised and nervous that the car wanted to dart left and right while driving in a stright line.  This is probably due to tow out and cold tires with pickup.  I don't even notice this now and just drive the car, but you should never take your hands off the wheel or lose focus on a straight.  

I like to find the best tire pressure by starting at a target of 28 (Hankook), and once the target pressure is reached, begin dropping pressure 1/2 psi to measure corner speed (from the data) and feel on the track.  For me it works best on a track where I can confidently put the car at the high speed lateral limit, so for example tracks like COTA, Roebling Road, Road America, Watkins Glen, etc. which have a long carusel turn.  By dropping 1/2 psi and running a couple laps, you can find where the tire begins to lose traction, typically with high speed oversteer (back end steps out).  For me and my SR3, 27-28 psi usually works best.  

There is a Radical handling guide which provides a nice summary of setting adjustments and effect.

For any pre-owned and unfamiliar car, I would perform a thorough inspection and service to return it to as-new condition.  Inspect/service/replace every component and fluid that is at or beyond its lifing expiration.  For example, you would not want an upright weld to separate when you are driving the car.  Replace worn nylock nuts, especially those that are are used for suspension bushing fasteners which should allow the suspension arms to move freely.