CHARGING LOOM FOR 2013 SR3RS
HI anyone got wiring details for charging loom ( one with 3o amp fuse /relay ) as fryed rectifier connector ..
Should be pretty straight forward, is the connector damaged, wires damaged, or the component damaged? Since it has a built in fuse i would be surprised if the loom itself damaged. Are the wires physically melted?
IN LINE fuse holder melted as cant pull out fuse and white connector melted .. easy repair as can buy end 6pin connector and in line fuse holder but would like to keep as spare rather than strip harness down to find wiring connectors that are encased in heavy rubber mouldings Tim Gray racing make a heavy duty harness here in UK but at arpund £250 seems expensive for whats involved
Strange. Heat to melt fuses/connector comes from resistance.. there are 3 scenarios to build that type of resistance. 1- either the connectors and pins weren't spec'd properly for the current, this is not the case here 2- The sizing is fine for normal running but you got a spike in load that maxxed out the properly functioning fuse and connector. You also would have popped the fuse like they are designed to do. 3- There was no spike in load, but the normal running load out matched a diminished contact. This generally happens when the electrical contacts are corroded or have insufficient seating of a pin/fuse.
I have seen all 3 scenarios on (non radical) racecars over the years. You can rule out scenario#1 because there are many many Radicals operating just fine with the spec that yours fried. This leaves #2 and #3. I have seen these same cheap inline fuses like the ones we get installed from the Radical factory fail, mostly from insufficient contacts due to the low quality manufacturing on the contact paddles, or something dumb like not pushing the fuse all the way down etc.
From the sound of it this is what i think happened to you. If it were me i'd pull the data from the AIM and/or the Life ECU and look to see if your voltage was spiking dipping surging before it happened. If it was not, you can rule out the larger underlying problem of #2.
Solving #3
I dont know anything about that Tim Gray harness other than saying what is on the Radical is a simple combinations of low voltages circuits. If it were me, i'd do an inspection of the wires a couple feet on both side of the damaged fuse and connector, if it melted plastic it will likely have melted wire insulation. I'd then buy new connectors/pins for the damaged parts and splice in new properly sized wires to a better, fuse holder that I resistance bench tested before putting in the car. $20 tops. That's just me. If you dont know how to do any of that, or don't have the afternoon to poke around and fix it, that £250 may be your best option.
good luck whatever you choose to do
Thanks for reply .. had car for 5 years never had a problem charging untill the original rectifier packed up (dropping voltage ) had a spare one (ebay one ... that few of my mates have used without any problems ) this rectifier has lasted 12 hrs !! untill the cable connector going onto rectifier toasted .. Had new charging harness that came with spares on car purchase have fitted and new suz rectifier all now good 14 volts .. fitted new end pin connector / inline fuse holder and ext ebay rectifier (which i tested diodes saying ok ) and 14volts !! will keep as spare .. spoke to previous owner said never changed any electicals so all original harness and rect but had lots spares from racing team and this harness has sep inline fuse holder ... ill check out ecu readings let u know ..