That looks like a better more protected installation. My question is with the DBW actuator being mounted securely on both ends, will there be a problem with heat expansion from the gearbox/engine or the actuator?
Good question Graeme. The new design using a linkage rod between the actuator and the throttles is much more tolerant of minor actuator movement relative to the throttle bodies than my original direct connection. It was one of Jenvey's (and MoTeC's, truth be told) concerns as well.
The actuator is held in place by two brackets, both made of 4.5mm thick steel. I think as long as heat expansion doesn't cause linkage binding, it will be fine... the brackets have room to "grow" for minor movement due to heat expansion, and the actuator isn't touching anything other than the brackets and linkage. Linkage binding would take movements of 2omm or even more.
Today I finished the pedal part of the DBW setup. I used a part Tilton sells to convert their 3 pedal series to DBW, and adapted it to the Radical. Like the actuator, the DBW uses the Penny+Giles TPS sensor, providing dual 5V signal outputs (one 0 to 5V, the other 5 to 0V).
As far as fabricating goes, this was the easiest so far. I used a threaded split clamp, that I changed from 10-32 to a 5mm x .8 thread to match the Tilton part.
From there it was some simple math to get the stroke right so that the pedal stroke matched the sensor rotation. The idea is to use as much of the sensor range as possible (without going over) to have the best fidelity of pedal position.
Looks great John! This is quite a project.
Charley
Over the past couple of days, I've been getting my fuel pump ready to go back in the car. One of the things I find most annoying about my SR8 is the lack of a fuel gauge. My understanding is that even new ones don't have one.
I wanted to put in a sensor and gauge as part of this project, but I now understand why they don't have one. The fuel cells have only a small space for the pump (the rest is full of foam), so there's no room for a passenger-car-style swing arm sensor. So I'm doing something not quite so fancy but still useful. I bought a petroleum-rated float switch, and it will complete a ground circuit when the level of the tank drops to about 20 cm. That will be connected to a relay, that when activated will power a warning light on the dash. Or I may send the signal to the ECU and have it light one of the MXL dash's alarms.
Also, the ECU can accurately account for fuel burned over time, so I'm going to add a fuel reset button, and I'll be able to see the number of liters used since the button was last pushed. The two mechanisms taken together should reduce a lot of the "how much fuel do I have left?" anxiety when I'm at the track.
I agree a fuel level gage would be great. I thought bout adding one when I had my custom cell made, but I couldn’t think of a straight forward way of doing it.
Charley
What will be cool is if I can run this Alarm through the ECU, and get it on the CAN bus along with the fuel consumption number. Then I can put it all on the dash display, rather than have a separate light, and/or have to run a report after a track session to get the fuel consumption number.
if your ecu can total fuel consumption, the putting it on the dash shouldn't be a (big) problem.
The F88 has a fuel consumption number that can be reset using PTmon software. I am going to spend some time trying to correlate the numbers into something useful.
I agree... it shouldn't be a big problem. It's just that the MXL and the MoTeC ECU may not play that well together. Time will tell.
The fuel pump is back in the car, and I tested the low fuel warning "system" (aka light, 🙂 ). Works great. It might just be a bit too late... the warning comes on with about a liter left. Hopefully, a liter can get me back to the paddock.
This looks good and very interesting John!
Will the Motec not run the OEM Hayabusa stick coils? Just thinking that these would be better for fitment and maybe supply/cost?
Hi Dan!
No. The M1 requires an extra box (an ignitor) to run the Hayabusa stick coils. I searched long and hard to find these Bosch units. They are actually in Bosch's motorsports catalog, so the calibration data, pinouts, dimensions, etc. are all available.
They aren't available in the US, though. I had to buy them in the UK and have them shipped. I did buy a spare...
Here are some recent photos. I've been heads-down with wires, connectors, and sheathing for several weeks. The wheel speed sensors are nearly a bolt-in (I had to turn the hubs about 0.2mm to get a proper press fit for the reluctor wheels, and the gearbox side cover studs make a mounting bracket pretty easy)
The coil and injector harness is done and wasn't too difficult.. the gearbox harness is a bit more complicated. You can it starting to take form. I'm using Delphi HES (harsh environment series) bulkhead connectors. Two of 'em unfortunately...
Looks like you,are making great progress John.
Interesting on the coils John.
We are currently working on a different V8 that will be running Motec early next year, we will find out what coils the wiring guys specify for it.
Looks like you are making good progress.
