Removing Oil Lines
Any suggestions on how to remove the oil line from the sump? When I turn the hose fitting going to the sump, the adapter in the sump turns with it and there doesn't seem to be enough clearance between the two to get two wrenches on them.
I was going to remove the line going from the oil canister but unless it just dribbles out, it looks like the oil would go all over the lip for the rear diffuser.
Any thoughts on doing something I thought would be fairly straight forward?
Not ideal Clark!
Sounds to me like either the sump fitting was not tight enough or the oil pipe was last done up cross threaded.
If it was me I would continue to wind the pipe out with fitting and drain your oil, once its out you can get two wrenches on there and undo the sump fitting, then fit it back into the sump before refitting the pipe. If the threads are damaged you have chance to sort them at that point.
Don't forget to remove the sump plug and remove any oil from there, especially if the car has been standing for a while - the oil drains from the oil tank into the engine.
Thanks, Dan. When you say sump plug, I'm assuming you're talking about the allen bolt that I've circled? The manual doesn't mention this but it totally makes sense.
This isn't the first issue I've encountered trying to do my 'routine' maintenance. When I went to open the fill plug for the gear box, there was a bracket over the top that covered just enough of the bolt so that I couldn't get a socket on it. Of course the manual makes it look easy and shows the plug easily accessible before the car is fully assembled.
Pardon me, but we are talking about an SR10, not an SR3. I have not worked on an SR10, but the owner's manual says:
Nothing mentioned about removing a sump bung. I would NOT remove that plug, but if someone knows otherwise, please correct me.
From Mike at WISKO ... he removes two 15mm hex head drain plugs and both AN hoses that connect to the sump pan. The drain plugs look like this:
In your picture Clark, it looks like there is one below the pink arrow:
The allen plug that you circled is to adjust oil pressure I believe.
@clark-darrah when they did my oil change they removed the two bolts pictured with orange marks.
Thanks, guys. Very helpful.
Removing the plug for the sensor in the oil cannister that @slip_angle shows makes a lot more sense than trying to remove the AN hose to drain the oil out of the cannister.
@clark-darrah My only concern about how they did this is the possibility of stripping the threads.
@slip_angle .. I find the the trick to almost completely minimise that risk is to only ever do these up by hand first, until the fittings are 'snugged' by hand... and only then use a wrench. Once a fitting is in/on by more than a couple of turns there is very little chance of 'cross threading' and really only leaves the risk of over-tightening.
i am in hydraulic business, have to deal with this kind of issue all the time. rotating the hose fitting is incorrect way to resolve the issue since the oil line fitting is sealed to the jic fitting on the oil pan. the way to fix the issue to buy a correct size Wrich and grinded it down in order fit the fitting on the oil pan. (the process is called back up) the use the proper size wrench on the hose and use both wrenches and undo the hose properly. i hope this helps
@thunder1375 Hey Firouz did you use to race shifter Karts with SWRA? Your name sounds familiar.
yes, that is me. i don't think lots of people run around with crazy name firouz 😀
yes that is me. not lots people around with crazy name running around 😀 😀