Where does clutch disengagement happen for most? First part of the stroke? Middle, end?
From the first time driving the car, I’ve had a very touchy clutch pedal. The disengagement was at the end of the pedal stroke and it had minimal feel and modulation.
My last session out a few weeks back, as I came into the pits, the clutch was not fully disengaging. Going from neutral to first would stall the car.
Classic signs of air in the system.
Today I decided to bleed the clutch and got a few very tiny bubbles. I ran about half a res’s worth of fluid through the system (no bubbles) and now I have a clutch that works very well; disengagement at the first part of the throw, much better feel and modulation.
So, what I’m wondering is where did the bubbles show up from? Anyone have any thoughts on what would have caused this?
I’ve never, that I’m aware of, gotten the clutch hot (previous owner may or may not have - no clue) or done anything that would have introduced heat into the system.
All fittings and the bleed nipple were tight and dry.
It’ll be interesting to see if anything pops up on the 19th during a track day.
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming 'WOW-What a Ride!'"
a friend of mine has a sr8 and he bleeds the clutch fro time to time.
I bleed the clutch before every event... mine is still touchy, and the car was easy to stall.
I'm hoping my new MoTeC setup will make the car easier to drive.
I can report that the MoTeC does make the car easier to drive, at least at slow speeds. I've lowered the idle to 1400 rpm, and even with that the car has more torque coming off idle... once the pedal goes over 2% the DBW helps a lot.
As far as the clutch goes, mine is pretty close to the bottom of the stroke too. Neutral to first or reverse doesn't stall the car, but there's not much pedal until the pedal starts to grab.
My last session out a few weeks back, as I came into the pits, the clutch was not fully disengaging. Going from neutral to first would stall the car.
That's exactly how my SR8 behaved this past weekend. Fine going out, wouldn't fully disengage coming back in. I'll be bleeding the clutch in earnest this week.
I guess I forgot to follow up on this thread.
Bleeding the system made a huge difference. Disengagement is now in the first half of the throw and modulation of engagement is much easier.
Lesson learned: If clutch acts funky, take 15 minutes and bleed it.
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming 'WOW-What a Ride!'"
