I had to replace my 950 size Odyssey in the SR3 after the winter and winced at the price tag. I know, I know: if I want to race for cheap, should buy a bicycle...although, these days...
So I found this XS Power battery, which has been in the car since March and has been flawless so far:
It's a direct replacement and about $100 cheaper than the Odyssey.
Hope this helps
@crimonto. I've been using a Lithium battery from BatteriesPlus (they have locations everywhere!). I bought two and keep one as a spare. 3 year warranty, and light as a feather: X2Power Lithium Iron Phosphate X2P20 Powersport Battery - CYL10089 at Batteries Plus
@parsonsj I also looked at Lithium and discussed it with my son who is an On Site Coordinator for the EPA (like when chemicals start burning out of control or when people try to sell a house in which they have been hoarding chemicals for years and decide to destroy evidence by flushing them down the toilets) and his view after extensive training on the subject is that lithium batteries can trigger some of the fire hazards most feared by those who have to fight them. Lithium batteries fires are SCARRY because they are virtually impossible to extinguish and that's why a lot of race tracks no longer accept EVs.
So I figured my car could weight a few more pounds and my lead acid battery is not something I need to worry about.
But at the same time, lithium batteries are everywhere around us, so...
@crimonto I hear you about fire, but this little 1.5kg battery is hardly an EV. Plus it's Lithium phosphate based, and rated for motorsports, which greatly reduces its fire hazard risk. Just like everything in life: know the risks and mitigate as required.
@parsonsj Hi John,
It's been over a year since I swapped batteries and I am finding that the one I got is showing signs of weakness. How's your experience now with the battery you picked at battery+?
Thanks
Chris
Hi Chris -- my battery continues to hang in there. I have gone through a couple of alternators this past spring, but the battery is still working great.
@parsonsj thanks John
Are the charging requirements different than for lead-acid batteries and would put a strain on the alternator?
I don't think so. SR8s are notorious for alternator wear (secondary vibration from the flat plane crankshaft seems to be the consensus for why that is so) even with OEM batteries. I've been through 7 or 8 alternators over the past 8 years. PowerMaster supplied my last alternator which seems to be a bit longer-lived, but one of the mounting bolts failed at my last session. If it's not one thing it's another, hah.
@parsonsj Oh, so an SR8!!
and the tiny battery can cope with cranking the V8 ok??
Quite impressive.
Thanks for your help.
@crimonto No problem at all. Its reserve capacity is smaller than the Odyssey 950 it replaced, but it can still crank the engine for 20-30 seconds to get oil pressure after an oil change and then start the car. One thing: be sure to get a compatible maintenance / charger. Using one designed for lead-acid or AGM batteries can damage a lithium phosphate battery.
So, I decided to jump ship and went for the same LiFePO4 battery you recommended. Very impressive in terms of light weight and power. But here's what happened to me:
on the last lap of my first afternoon session, the car (SR3) starts to burp a couple of time and then all the screens turn black and engine dies. I pull to the grass thinking I am going to need a tow back to the pits. After 3-4 minutes I flip the master switch and everything comes back, the car starts fine and I can return to the pits. Then last session of the day, same exact scenario. and then I remembered that these batteries have a safety feature to keep them from overheating and I think that's exactly what happened: on the SR3, the battery top sits about a foot from the headers and in an enclosed environment. With the heat building up through the session, the battery just kicked off.
I pulled the battery out yesterday, to find out that the + POST was no longer sitting straight up, the top of the battery closest to the headers had sunk in a bit and the front of the battery was bulging out in the corner. Not good.
I still have the old Odyssey and XSPower batteries and upon closer inspection, both shows signs of bulging, or otherwise softening in the same area, closest to the headers, which might explain their early demise.
I am not sure of which battery I will get now, but I am 100% certain that I am adding a fresh air duct coming into a flow-thru aluminum battery box which will also act as a more comprehensive air cooled heat shield from the headers close by.
Who would have thunk??
@crimonto, that is great information, thank you for sharing your experience. I your Odyssey battery one of their "Extreme series" batteries? They seem to stand up to the harsh environment better.
Hey Charley,
I did have the Odyssey Extreme in the car when I got it, and I remember telling the Canadian dealer, Robert Burgess that I was concerned about the look of the battery top corner, the one that's sitting about 3" away from the 900F+ header.
So that's 3 batteries now that have gone bad on the same corner, so I decided to build an aluminum box that provides a heat shield and a bit of space around the battery to allow airflow coming from the red duct that takes fresh air from a 90 silicone elbow placed on top of the firewall, right next to my helmet. Photo attached.
The Battery+ store agreed to take the melting Lithium battery back and suggested a Duracell AGM motorcycle battery, which is much smaller than the ODYSSEY and lighter too and does not seem to have any problem cranking and starting the 1340.
I'll keep everyone posted on how that works out.
So, I am afraid I have to take back my praises for the XS Power battery. After 15 months it has failed, refusing to take a charge. The manufacturer declines the 2 years warranty despite clear signs of an internal element failure. Surprise...cheap--er did not pan out!
