air shifter problem...
 
Notifications
Clear all

air shifter problem 2015 SR3

13 Posts
7 Users
4 Likes
1,000 Views
Trevor Poquette
(@tmpoquette)
Trusted Member
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 64
Topic starter  

So, my first track event was a bust.  The shifter does not work.  It strangely worked when I was messing around in my neighborhood back in Nov.

First problem (I didn't know was a problem), the compressor continually runs.  So, I checked all connections looking for a leak.  No leaks.  Also, found out the tank reaches almost 1 MPa = 150psi.  Actually starts actuating the relief valve.  Steering wheel paddle inputs were verified on the diagnostic screen.  The fault that shows up is voltage vault in gps system?  So, my thought is the pressure transducer is broken or giving false reading causing the ecu to think there isn't enough pressure; therefore won't allow car to shift and won't turn off the air pump?

My questions are:

1.  what pressure does the tank achieve before shut off.

2.  how long does the pump typically run on start up.

3.  Does it shift while the tank is being pump up or do you have to wait until the tank pressure is achieved.

 

This was an issue when I purchased the car.  The TX company replaced the harness and said that fixed the problem. It did shift when I drove the car for a very short period of time in Nov (first to 2nd and back to first, then neutral).  I think that was the only time the pump would stop running.


   
Quote
John Parsons
(@parsonsj)
Prominent Member
Joined: 6 years ago
Posts: 633
 

Hi Trevor -- the circuit that runs the pump is pretty simple. The ECU takes in sensor input from the air reservoir, and activates a relay via ground wire when the sensor says the reservoir pressure is too low, and de-activates the relay when the pressure reaches a certain level.

I don't know the correct operating pressures of 2015 models, but I can add that my 2007 and 2009 SR8s operates in the 7 to 10bar range (100 - 150 psi), and run for 45-60s at power on after sitting overnight. Maybe someone can chime in with typical 2015 model information. 

In the meantime, I'd look at the relay first, and make sure it is operating correctly. One quick test that you can do is to swap the fuel pump and compressor relays -- they are the same (on mine anyway), and you can see if the problem moves with the relay.

 John


   
CharleyH reacted
ReplyQuote
Trevor Poquette
(@tmpoquette)
Trusted Member
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 64
Topic starter  

Thanks for the information.  I figured the pump didn't have to run very long on the initial fill.

I will try swapping the relays, that is a quick check.


   
ReplyQuote
Stephen Davidson
(@stephen)
Trusted Member
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 76
 

Is there a setting in the diagnostic screen which shows when the ECU thinks the compressor is on?


   
ReplyQuote
Trevor Poquette
(@tmpoquette)
Trusted Member
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 64
Topic starter  

When I get back in town, I'll take some pictures of the diagnostic screens and see if anyone can make sense of them.


   
ReplyQuote
Trevor Poquette
(@tmpoquette)
Trusted Member
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 64
Topic starter  

The relay works.  It turns the pump on.  I took the cap off and can see it close when ignition is turned on.  The problem is the pump won't shut off.  I replaced the pressure transducer today. Same result.  Pump runs continuous until the relief valve opens at about 10 bar.  I noticed a new problem, the diagnostic screen shows a pressure of 4.995-5.000 bar always.  I let all the pressure out and it still says 4.995-5.000 bar.  So, it makes sense that the ECU won't turn off the pump since it thinks the presrue is 5 bar when it it suppose to turn off at 7-8 bar.  So, I have no idea why the reading would always be 5 bar.  Especially with a new transducer.  Any ideas?


   
ReplyQuote
Dan Phillips
(@rlm-dan)
Reputable Member
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 262
 

Have you made any progress with this?

Are you able to download the ECU data and send it to me?

It maybe a driver in the ECU damaged that is causing the problem.

Is the car running wheel speed? If so check the sensor is not damaged. There are a number of sensors on the same 5V circuit and if one gets damaged it can make the others read incorrectly, causing problems like this.


   
CharleyH reacted
ReplyQuote
Trevor Poquette
(@tmpoquette)
Trusted Member
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 64
Topic starter  

Hi Dan,

I didn't have any luck after the pressure sensor switch.  I was thinking it was the ECU.  That is good news to me that other sensors are on the same circuit, hopefully it is one of the other sensors and not the ECU.  I figure the ECU repair or replace would be expensive. 

I friend of mine was headed down to VIR this past sunday and offered to take the car to Danyel at Wisko Racing.  So, the car is there and Danyel said they will take a look at it tomorrow.


   
CharleyH reacted
ReplyQuote
Trevor Poquette
(@tmpoquette)
Trusted Member
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 64
Topic starter  

Problem solved.  In the shifter wiring hardness, one of the small plugs had a damaged pin connector.  Leave it up to the experts at Wisko racing.  The air compressor was rigged to be powered directly by the side pod battery at all times.  That is why the pump constantly ran.  In the end, I am glad this problem came about before I took the car out on the track.  There are a number of safety issues with the car that I was not aware of.  I just have to get them fixed and I will be ready to GO!

Ian Dowson in TX worked/maintaned the car and did the repairs on the original shifter problem.  I highly recommend you watch yourself dealing with that company in TX.


   
ReplyQuote
GraemeD
(@graemed)
Reputable Member
Joined: 6 years ago
Posts: 220
 

Glad you sorted it out, wiring problems are hard to diagnose when there has been mods to the system.

As for Ian, I had a very positive experience when he helped import my car. So there might be other factors involved in the condition of your car.  ie; the prior owner wanting a “quick” fix. 


   
ReplyQuote
Crit Scholer
(@crit)
Estimable Member
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 235
 

@tmpoquette Glad they were able to get it sorted for you! What are some of the safety concerns they found?

 


   
ReplyQuote
Trevor Poquette
(@tmpoquette)
Trusted Member
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 64
Topic starter  

The suspension uprights from all different year cars, one as old as 2008 (my car is a 2015).  One with a crack that was circled to "keep an eye on it".

Front spherical bearings worn, causing the car to be darty at speeds as low as 35 mph

Front suspension bushings worn, all the  A-arms are date coded from various years too

out of date harnesses and halon bottle (I did notice the date stamp on the belts)

I am getting everything up to date and replaced as needed so I can start with a nice clean slate

Ian was very helpful getting the car on the transport and out to me. But, I did pay him for a full inspection and to make sure everything worked correctly.  That was definitely not done.  Wiring a compressor to run all the time when the ignition is on, is just unacceptable.  The shifter wasn't fixed properly.  He never returned my call after I found some of the issues.  Suspension wear and uprights/a-arms from various cars should be part of the inspection report.  I bought a 2015 car, not a junk yard piece meal.  I seriously doubt the car came like this from the dealer chris preen in the UK that the buyer purchased it from.  The new buyer only had it on the track 3 times over the few years he owned it.


   
GraemeD reacted
ReplyQuote
CharleyH
(@charleyhradicalsportscarregistry-com)
Famed Member Admin
Joined: 6 years ago
Posts: 1835
 

@tmpoquette, Wow!  I am so sorry to hear this, I have never heard of anything like this before!  

 


   
ReplyQuote
Share: