Are there any dodgy bits i should be aware of or keep spares for just in case?
I've heard for example the compressor can be troublesome so it's worth having a spare incase i'm on a track day and the gearshift stops working....
are there any weak spots that even with proper maintenance can prove troublesome?
i've got a 2021 Gen4 engine in mine (still being prepped before i pick it up!)
I have tried to figure that our myself on my 2021 SR3 XX, just to have spare parts available in my shop and especially at track just in case.
- I keep two extra brake discs and extra brake pads
- I purchased and installed a heavy duty GDU magnet filter in-line to help predict/slow metal flow when gears starts to fail in the future
- I keep numerous small parts: grease for axle boots, clamps, various fasteners, peel rivets, various fluids, spare starter.
- Electrical - I put extra effort to keeping everything fully charged because a weak system causes all kinds of problems
- I have not heard anything bad about air compressors as you noted above, but have certainly experienced defective air body valve. It is super sensitive and appears somewhat delicate. I am considering an extra one to have but they also are quite expensive.
Otherwise, am curious what others may say to this as well. If something occurs at the track, I am hopeful that I can fix issue to get back on track and not waste the whole weekend.
i'm also curious to know how i can safely store it, as it's going to be sat in the garage for 3 months whilst the UK is cold and gloomy.
i assume i'll have to start it up every week to keep things flowing etc... keep it on trickle charge...
wondering what else i need to do so that come April and the first track day i can run with no issues.
Another good question, long term storage. This can certainly cause some debates: empty or full fuel, etc. I also store mine for ~2 months until Feb track weekend. My longest storage is actually in Summer for 3-4 months due to excessive heat here in Texas.
- For me, I prefer low fuel volume remaining since aluminum tank. I purposefully keep StaBil in my last fuel fill at tracks for storage and prevent ethanol degradation.
- I keep mine on a two post lift, with tires off and no stress on chassis or suspension.
- I replaced engine and GDU fluids and other car maintenance/prep items after the last track weekend, so car is ready to load up once next Feb weekend arrives.
- Focus on long term battery conditioning/charging for both of them.
- Careful with tire storage, try to keep above freezing. Some manufacturers recommend tire storage above 40F.
- I dont bother with starting or running the car during these extended storage times, maybe I should. Seemed like extra heat cycling causes its own issues and puts unwanted run time on engine.
@rojid, some people like to have a spare starter just in case the don’t react quickly enough when they spin. I have never heard of anyone bringing a spare compressor.
it is a very good practice to start the car every few weeks because the ECU battery only charges when the master switch is in the on position. Many people think that having a trickle charge is enough but that only charges the main batteries and not the ECU battery.
There is definitely no need to buy a spare compressor unit. As others have also said I have never had any trouble, and I haven't heard of anyone else doing that either.
The normal issue that people struggle with that relates to the compressor is trouble with short intervals between the compressor running (in some really bad cases the compressor runs almost continuously), caused by leaks in the solenoid valve block that sits of the left hand chassis rail near the radiator. Its a little black aluminium box (actually beautifully built!) that has some pneumatic lines running into and out of it with 'push-lock' type fittings.
My compressor used to cycle on quite often when I first got my car (and ran at east 50% of the time when I was on track). I measured it in my garage at ~45 minutes between operation, even with no gear actuation. Others on the forum were reporting that theirs would last over 3 hours sitting in the garage.
I followed the instructions on this Forum and tightened the small screws inside the solenoid box that controls air flow to the throttle blipper cylinder and the gear shift actuator.
Here's the instructions I followed....
My car will now sit for over a week in my garage without the compressor 'cycling' and only comes on about every 50 or 60 seconds while on track (probably to between 10 & 12 gear shifts at my local track). You can see when the compressor is 'cycling' on/off during operation by looking at the Battery Voltage logged in your AiM dash data. It normally runs at >14 volts when there is no load, and 'pulls down' to just above 12 volts when the compressor runs (please not that the same voltage depression will occur if something else is also operating - like you cooling fan if you have one installed) I'm using this view of the data to tell me when when the solenoid valve block needs to be serviced again (ie - when interval gets back to compressor running much more often)
While I was servicing my solenoid valve block I took note of the part numbers and purchased a spare valve and most importantly some spare rubber gaskets. It is these gaskets, and the joint they seal between the solenoid valve and the air distribution base in the unit that leak when the 'tiny' screws come loose. See the attached link for the part numbers and details of what I purchased...
