My 2007 SR8 splitter is, uh, splitting all along the back side (where it bolts to the chassis). I'm looking for a replacement, and wondering if there's a difference between the SR3 and SR8...
Thanks!
And second question -- can a second gen (2009-2014) splitter work with the 2006-2008 models?
John, the SR3 and SR8 use the same part. But the RS splitter is not a direct fit on your car. Although with your skills, you could likely make anything fit.
By the way, I know someone in Texas that has a spare second gen SR8 nose and tail that you could likely get a great deal on.
Charley
Thanks Charley. I'm no body man -- that stuff will kill you! But you have a PM, thanks!
A different, but related question inspired by looking at the photos on Charley's SR3 Buyer's Guide. My car has the optional hot weather kit, and I struggle to get enough temperature into the car most mornings here. (I don't run during the hellish summer months here in Florida -- that's for youngsters and idiots, lol).
What would it take to eliminate the front radiator? How do the first gen SR8s route the coolant plumbing on the "standard cooling" setup?
John, while the front nose cooling was optional on the Gen 1 SR3 it was a standard feature on the first Generation SR8's. The second generation SR3's and SR8's used the same cooling system and it was built into the left side pod. But the second generation side pods had larger radiators and more cooling capacity than the first generation side pods. For the second generation SR3's the cooling system is over-sized and it is challenging to keep enough heat in the engines. Believe it or not the recommended way to maintain proper operating temperatures is to use Duct tape to cover part of the side pod screens to adjust how much airflow goes through the radiators. Unfortunately on the Gen 1 SR8's there really isn't a great place to put tape. You could use red body tape to cover up sections of the bodywork in front of the front radiator, but that wouldn't look very good. Another solution could be to put a small gurney flap on your side pod, located as shown in the attached picture, to divert airflow away from the rear radiator. I don't know of anyone that has tried it but it seems like a simple way to address the issue. If that doesn't get your operating temperatures where you want them you could plumb a bypass for either the front or rear radiator.
Charley
Thanks Charley -- SM told me the same thing: use tape to divert airflow from the front radiator. I can do that, but given that I'm strongly considering swapping body panels, and that I might as well change the panels to Gen2 panels, then maybe I shouldn't replace this front radiator since it has to be tossed when I do that.
So I'm thinking the way to go would be to upgrade the car to Gen2 cooling (and not spend $950 on a front radiator) so that when I upgrade the body, the cooling system will be good to go.
I'll check with SM on what that might entail tomorrow.
That sounds like a great plan. I’m looking forward to following your progress.
Charley
In an effort to lower stress and not lose track time in April whilst attempting to swap the body panels, I sent the radiator out to a local radiator repair shop, and they fixed it for $75. The repair looks atrocious (silver solder is my guess) but I tested the rad to 20 psi without issue. So I'll put the car back together as is for now, addressing the rub issue so this particular problem doesn't happen again. I'll use some "racer tape" to cover the damaged areas in the front diffuser. Cheap solutions -- I hope they don't come back to bite me.
The RS body swap will be put on hold for a month or two.
