My car isn't charging the main battery whilst running. Was working perfectly on the last track day, battery flat lined around 14v.
Running the car this week on its 2nd outing, and would stay at 12v and slowly trend downward (checked all the data in LIFE)
I can see the procedure in the manual, but where are all the components? Any advise or guidance on the process to check each one would be much appreciated... i'm not sure what they even look like? if someone could take some pics of the below then at least i'll know where to look and start diagnosing!
- charging fuse in sub loom?
- charging relay (is that the starter solenoid?)
- stator?
- Rectifier?
i want to folllow the helpful process map to try and diagnose myself before giving up and getting a team to look at it.
well i fixed this. Ricksmotorsport is a wonderful resource and has howto guides for noobs like me, to diagnose the different components that make up the charging system on a bike engine.
i simply followed their videos, checked the stator, then checked the rectifier and that was my issue. It had fried itself, something inside had overheated and had actually made a hole in the rubber/glue seal and some goo was seeping out.
with some helpful advise off the facebook group, i bought this
https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/Suzuki-SV1000--GSXR1000--GSX1300--GSX1400--VL1500--VZ1600-Regulator-Rectifier----RR55--RR55-3.html#SID=439
did the trick. Hopefully it lasts.
If it goes bang again then i'll have to have a closer look at my charging system, maybe change out the connectors, hardwire, move the rectifier to a cooler place, put a small cooling fan on it.....lots of things to try if it becomes a common niggling problem.
but for now at least the car is back to showing 13.9V consistently at idle, so, problem solved.
Glad you got it fixed. The rectifier itself and the white threeway plug that connects it to the motor are known issues in the motorcycle world. Its good to periodically pull apart that connector and check the condition of the contacts and spray some MAF cleaner in it. Sometimes the wire and sheath will wick oil down into the connector to burn, eventually the residue creates resistance and can lead to the rectifier itself burning out or to not complete the DC circut allowing the battery to charge. The chlorine in the MAF cleaner will remove the oil build up quickly and not leave any residue.
