@gwt561324, Rich mentioned doing that your engine has 35 hours on it. If this is correct and the compression test and coils check out, I would put a new set of plugs in for the next 5 hours and then send the engine to SM (or your preferred Radical shop) for overhaul.
I cannot really tell from the pictures but is that what looks like a build up of rust on the plug or some bad carbon deposits? You mention using some different/mixed fuel and that could have caused a strange build up.
Do you still have access to the bore scope? It would be great to see some shots of the outer edges of the pistons - if detonation has taken place it will be most predominantly on the outside of the pistons and maybe the valve pockets.
How did the results from the compression test come in?
Using no oil or water? Along with no signs on blue smoke on start up or pulling away?
Dan
Compression/leak down test is on hold until an install of a new battery. I failed to keep it on the tender during the offseason.
The build-up does seem to be rust. Leaning towards humidity at the moment.
I plan to do to the compression check tonight. I'll grab the scope and see if we can see the edges of the pistons while we are at it.
It hasn't used any measurable water all year. Oil use is about 100 - 200 ml per weekend (6 - 8 hours running time). Oil use remained quite constant throughout the year.
I haven't ever noticed any blue smoke on start up or pulling away.
We got the compression check done last night - all 4 cylinders were at ~240 PSI.
I didn't get through the leakdown test as we might have damaged the bolt on the starter clutch trying to remove it.
Two other interesting items of note - fuel pressure was running about 3.3 bar instead of between 2.8 and 3.2. Finally exhaust temperatures were about 100F higher on ports 3 and 4 compared to 1 and 2.
Since the compression test looks good and your aren't loosing any water, I would think the most likely culprit is moisture from winter storage. I don't have any experience with the oxygenated fuel issue that Rich brought up but he sees a lot more of these then I do so I have no reason to doubt that as a contributing factor. Your oil consumption is a bit high compared to what I have personally seen. I don't know why two cylinders are running hotter unless you are having a fuel injection issue. I know that you just had them cleaned but I can't think of anything else that would cause that.
If it were my car, since you only have 5 hours until overhaul I would change the plugs and run it for the next 5 hours and then send it to Spring Mountain to get overhauled. When they overhaul the engine they will clean and check the FI system also, and run it on the dyno so you know everything will be working properly. Another route you could take since it is winter is send the engine in now and then you will have it back in time for when the tracks are clear. It sucks to give up 5 hours of run time but that might be better than having the car out of service during the racing season?
Charley
This conversation is exactly why I wear the best PPE available while cleaning combustion components during rebuilds Charley.
I should add that a good way to avoid moisture problems during the storage period is to avoid start ups that don't reach operating temperatures which can cause condensation.
Good to see that the compression test results are good - I would still be interested to see bore scope pictures of the edges of pistons.
Oil usage isn't on the high side at all.
I am with Charlie and running your remaining hours with a new set of plugs.
The reason for the difference in temps between 1-2 & 3-4 will be the balance/sync of your throttle bodies 1-2 once set are then matched to 3-4. If you have a synchrometer it is something you can do at home.
New set of plugs are in.
We will balance the throttle bodies and re-test exhaust temperatures.
