I apologize if this has been discussed but I can't find it using the search here or on google or Apex. So I have recently gotten a SR3 RS 1500. I've been reading all about Radicals for some time now. I have some questions. First, how difficult is working on them? I have an older sports Racer with Yamaha R1 engine and I can pull the engine and do a lot of things on it. I'm by no means a good mechanic, but I can do some basic things (thanks to youtube and forums). I can trouble shoot a lot of things but I know the Radical is way more sophisticated. Next, the AiM MXL display only goes up to 10,000 rpms. I can't find anywhere the redline but I thought I saw it was 11,000. Next, the fuel recommendations. So, near me (and I mean 1.5 hours away) we have two options (aside from AV which I see is frowned upon), Sunoco at a a couple pump stations, 260 GTX and 110 which is leaded. Is the 260 GTX which is unleaded 98 sufficient? If not, do I mix 110 leaded with 93 pump? I'm looking forward to learning more and experiencing the car. VP is only available via drum or 5 gallon and local is C16, 110, or MS109. Thanks. Also special thanks to Charley as he has answered many questions over the last month.
First, how difficult is working on them?
Compared to say working on a late model diesel truck, it is very, very simple. However there is a steep learning curve, and even changing the engine oil and gearbox oil for the first time will probably have you scratching your head. It is a race car, and many things can and do go wrong. Nothing seems to ever go wrong on my Acura RDX -- just gas and go and it never breaks. But a race car is a different animal which needs constant attention and experience to know what must be inspected or serviced so that you don't end up harming your car and yourself on the track.
Also, if you barely touch something like the tire wall, you might have to replace some expensive items.
Based on what I read on this forum, most owners are track day enthusiasts who will use one set of tires for the entire year and possibly never check the chassis setup on their cars because they don't own the equipment to do it. In that case, I would recommend minimum a complete chassis setup at least once a year by a racing team (not a tire shop). I would also recommend a complete inspection and setup by a Radical technician when you receive the car. Your health/life is on the line and I guarantee they will find things that need service or replacement.
I have an older sports Racer with Yamaha R1 engine and I can pull the engine and do a lot of things on it. I'm by no means a good mechanic, but I can do some basic things (thanks to youtube and forums). I can trouble shoot a lot of things but I know the Radical is way more sophisticated.
My profile and experience is similar to yours and I did it, but some things were pretty overwhelming the first time. e.g. removing the fuel cell. The good news is that Radicals are very well supported with service literature and this forum is very helpful.
Next, the AiM MXL display only goes up to 10,000 rpms.
Idk. I thought the rev limiter is triggered around 10500. On my dash, I need to shift no later than when the shift lights just begin blinking. I usually shift before that, when it gets to the last indicator light. While driving, I never look at the numical rpm value. After a session, I download and look at the ECU data on my laptop pc which will tell you whether you are shifting too early/late.
Next, the fuel recommendations. So, near me (and I mean 1.5 hours away) we have two options (aside from AV which I see is frowned upon), Sunoco at a a couple pump stations, 260 GTX and 110 which is leaded. Is the 260 GTX which is unleaded 98 sufficient?
I would use the 98. If you just need a few gallons to work on your car, then do that but I have never found it necessary to purchase fuel anywhere but the track. Sometimes at races we have 55 gallon drums of Sunoco delivered, but every track I have been to has 100 Octane race fuel.
Great info!!!
You can make changes to your MXL using Race Studio 2. You can download on the Aim-sportline website
I have Race Studio 3 for my AIM solo DL2 on other car. So what is redline on the 1500??
Also what’s wrong with lead in these motors?
leaded fuel is bad for the O2 sensors for fuel injection cars. 110 leaded is typically for carbureted race cars.
Yes I know about lead but these cars/bike motors don’t have either so why can’t I run 110 since it’s available at the pump vs Jerry cans. No 100 near me. Also can anyone give me more advice with my above questions please.
I don’t know how I missed the manual on here. So redline is 10,500 but dash just goes to 10000. I guess this is safety to shift before you hit 10.5. Yes I know about lead but these cars/bike motors don’t have either so why can’t I run 110 since it’s available at the pump vs Jerry cans. No 100 near me.
@nautoncall - regarding your questions about the dash only showing 10,000 rpm on the linear scale near the top of the display... It's certainly never been a problem for me as you hardly ever drive while watching that!... Its the shift lights which are best used to help get the shifts exactly right and these are programmable via RaceStudio. I see you already have RaceStudio 3 which is great, but I'm not sure the older MXL dash shown in the picture above is compatible with RS3. Is that the same model as the dash in your car?
I think I remember reading somewhere that the older MXL (not the later MXL2) require RS2 software. ...? Maybe someone else will know?
I have reprogrammed my shift lights to come on more progressively (according to which gear you are in)... see below. I'm not sure whether this option is available on the older MXL dash, but if it is I can certainly recommend you using that feature if it is available to you. The RPM rises much more quickly in the lower gears and I find this helps me get the shifts right (closer to 10k rpm where the peak power of these engines sits) without risking me hitting the limiter, especially in 1st and 2nd.
The LED's are also programmed to 'flash' at the blue LED level in each gear.. so even if I'm not looking at the dash I can normally see this in my peripheral vision. To help with the use of the lights, I have also added a small 'shade' cover' onto the top of my dash... this prevents direct sunlight getting onto the dash where the LED's are positioned and makes them easier to see even in bright sunlight. See below from when I was testing a new alarm
... not exactly sure what other advice your after? Maybe it's the bit about how difficult the Radical are to work on?...
Given you have said that you have worked on bike engined cars before then that's a great start. This was my first car of this type and it's been pretty easy to be honest. There's a lot to learn there's no doubt about that, and there's always plenty of maintenance to do to keep them in good order. I think you'll find this Forum quite useful. Probably pay to have a good look through it and then learn to use the 'search' function - that's always where I start if I have a question....
Hope you enjoy the car!
@rjbender I have a simple Aim Solo 2 DL on my car which is much less sophisticated but does use RaceStudio 3. My set up is similar to yours on the screen on my Sports Racer. That same screen you show is available on my current Solo 2 but I'll have to check on the MXL. Glad to hear you can do lots of the wrenching. Where is the manual to tell me how to do engine and trans oil change and coolant flush? That's the first thing I want to do. I've had a dry sump car before. I read the owners manual but it didn't describe the oil change and basic maintenance "how to's"
@nautoncall ... there isn't a manual for everything... but there are plenty of resources on this forum under the 'Resource Library'... anything from about 4 different SR3 Owners Manuals, SR3 Mechanics Handbook, SR3 Set-Up Guide, SR3 GDU Service Manual, etc... hours of fun!
I think you also missed my point about the usefulness of the 'search' function - here's what I found after 10 seconds of looking for your question re oil changes....
Hope that gets you started...
@rjbender. I saw some of those but since it was for newer cars I didn't know it would be the same for older ones. I found some things similar on Radical's site but again I didn't think it would be relatable in an 09. I'll pay more attention!!!
@nautoncall ... You'll find that with a few exceptions there's an awful lot that hasn't changed much with the SR3's over time. I've got a good friend with a 2002 car... and I've got a 2015 RSX and a 2023 XX... there is an awful lot in common - especially with the basic engine and GDU/drivetrain. There are a lot of differences in the ECU/Dash/Logger setups over the years. Is yours an MBE ECU or a later LIFE ECU?
Some of the etc engine similarities will change from 2023 onwards as the new XXR's have a new generation Hyabusa engine with fly by wire throttle bodies, etc
@rjbender it's one of the 09s with the Life ECU but has Geartronics shift system. Hope their fly by wire system is better than some with the delay in throttle response.
That makes me feel much better that things have remained the same except the ECU/computer technology changes. "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
... why can’t I run 110 since it’s available at the pump vs Jerry cans. No 100 near me.
You can run 110. You can run 98. You can mix fuel. The engine runs best on 100; the manufacturer has done the testing to know and advise this.
Charlie answered this question in another thread on this site titled "Track Consumable Costs". Search "110" and you will find it. He references the VP Racing FAQ which has a topic: Can you over octane an engine? If so, what happens?
@davidf Thanks. I am just trying to find what is available locally vs buying $95-$115 5 gallon cans of VP, Renegade, or Sunoco. We have 98 (Sunoco 260 GTX) which is nonethanol unleaded. The only other thing is 110 which is leaded. I understand the octane thing, but just inquiring about the lead. Still never got a good answer except hurts cats and o2 sensors. Radicals have neither, correct?
