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Help please: first engine oil and GDU fluid change

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Dan Millsaps
(@raider89)
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Ok, am doing my first fluid change on new SR3 XX after Cota weekend and want to make sure done correctly the first time.

IMG 5169

Engine oil:  I simply removed the lower hose connecting lower engine and oil tank and let drain for a few hours.  Plus, removed and replaced oil filter.  Were these the only two locations required to drain oil for routine fluid change?  Manual says system hold 12L, but only need 9L, do yall agree?  

IMG 5173

GDU:  I removed lower hose fitting and let drain for several hours.  Am I supposed to get anywhere else to work from?  Takes 1L for refill?

IMG 5174

Also, do yall remove small hose on top of GDU for refilling?  Or, do you actually fill and monitor level from the lower side bolt?

IMG 5175
IMG 5176

   
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John Annunziata
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That's how I do it but doesn't make it right!!  I also remove the side bolt on the GDU and when it overflows I stop filling.

 


   
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CharleyH
(@charleyhradicalsportscarregistry-com)
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Hi Dan, Yes you are doing it right.

To change the engine oil remove the lower engine oil hose and allow the oil to drain.  I don't know that you have to wait for hours but definitely give it some time to drain out.  

For the GDU you do as you described and remove the lower hose and allow it to drain.  Then remove the side and top fittings.  You fill through the top fitting until it just starts to come out of the side hole.  At that point I like to rotate the wheels by hand and pump the new fluid through the cooler until it comes out clean.  I hold a container under the top hose to catch the fluid.  Then top off the fluid until it is just to the bottom of the side hole.  Do not be tempted to over fill the GDU with oil because if you do it will end up spitting out of the overflow and will make a mess... You don't need to ask me how I know that 😉 

For the GDU fluid make sure you are using the Neo Synthetics RHD (Race Heavy Duty).  They also make gear lube without the RHD and it is not as good.  Don't be tempted to use the non RHD or any other fluid.  One of the Technical experts at the Factory told me that they have tested lots of fluid and nothing compares to the Neo Synthetics RHD.


   
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Dan Millsaps
(@raider89)
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Awesome, thanks for the confirmation.  Yes, I have specified fluids.


   
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Dan Millsaps
(@raider89)
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Out of curiosity, does the bottom oil line fitting always weep oil?  This would be from the flexible hose to large aluminum fitting, not hose to male engine block fitting?  I noticed it weeping on brand new engine even though fitting was very tight, and not still weeping after reinstallation.  I freakin hate oil or fluid leaks on my stuff.


   
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Robert Luketic
(@lunatic)
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You forgot to wash the car🤣🤣


   
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Garrett Taylor
(@gwt561324)
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@raider89 while not new, my oil line weeps as well. If I remove it and thoroughly douse with brake clean, I can get it to stop but I'd be lying if I said I knew how to consistently get it to not weep.


   
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Dan Phillips
(@rlm-dan)
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Feed pipe should not leak, although it is normally a tight fit so make sure its not twisted at an odd angle.

For me personally doing an oil change I would also be removing the sump bung from the dry sump, if the engine has not been ran just before the change then the oil from the dry sump tank can run back into the engine - just be careful not to overtighten the sump bung when refitting.


   
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Dan Millsaps
(@raider89)
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I am confused, back to original questions.  For the 1500cc engine, I changed the oil by only pulling main oil feed hose and oil filter, let drain overnight until dry.  I thought this was correct based on earlier replies.  I did not drain the cooler or screened sump bung.

The Owners Manual says the oil system holds 12L, and needs 9L for oil change.  HOWEVER, I could only squeeze 6L into oil tank, thinking it would suck down.  But it did not, now overfilled for some crazy reason, and I need to suck some out before tomorrow's Cota run.  I am confused, how or where am I supposed to get 9L out of the system?


   
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DavidF
(@davidf)
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Hi Dan,

A couple of tips/points:

  1. remove the oil line from the can first, then remove the end on the sump.  You won't need to drain the oil overnight.
  2. Use an AN wrench on the fittings so you don't damage them.
  3. Don't worry about trying to get 9L back in -- 6L is about right.  Just check the level using the procedure described in the owner's manual (4000 rpm for 10s, ...).  

If you have overfilled, I recommend starting over with step 1 above or maybe you could siphon some out?  I would just start over myself.  

 

Also, see this thread on the same topic. This post in particular


   
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Dan Phillips
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@raider89

When the car sits for any period of time the oil drains out of the dry sump tank back into the engine. 

Before doing an oil change I would recommend running the engine for a few seconds to scavenge the oil back into the dry sump tank, this way you will drain more oil out.

This is also the reason why I recommend that you remove the sump drain plug to ensure that you have drained all of the oil out of the engine.

This sounds like it has happened to you and there was still a lot of oil sat in the engine, so once you then filled the dry sump tank and ran the engine up it scavenged the excess oil out of the engine into the tank - which is why the level is now overfull.


   
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dwang2000
(@dwang2000)
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@rlm-dan 

Just to make sure ... this is the sump plug?

 

IMG 18722

   
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Rod Bender
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@dwang2000 ... yep


   
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Dan Phillips
(@rlm-dan)
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@dwang2000 

As Rjbender says it is. Don't over tighten it when refitting and consider a new crush washer (Its OEM Suzuki).


   
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Dan Millsaps
(@raider89)
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FYI - I was told by Dealer that I should only remove lower hose and fitting to the left with screen for oil drains.

image

 

 


   
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