That is interesting.
I know the factory and the dealers know what they are doing but personally I would not recommend this. The scavenge frame/screen that you mentions locates in a cut out within the sump pan, if you do not line this up correctly on either end then you end up crushing the gauze and restricting oil flow.
I have also seen where this was not located correctly and then after a tooth came off a gear in the gearbox it was picked up in the oil, due to a gap in the scavenge frame as it was not located correctly, and pulled into the oil scavenge pump which intern caused it to lock up and the engine suffered an oil related failure!!
What size is the bolt to fill in GDU oil on the top? Does it loosen by turning it counter close wise? Mine is stuck but don't want to break the aluminum bolt.
Thank you.
you have to use a back up on the nut and use a good 11/16 wrench and undo the 90-degree fitting. you will not hurt it. good luck
@pugdaddy - Use an AN open ended wrench to undo the fitting on the top (the one with an integrated 90 degree elbow) It's a -6 or -8 I can't remember which. (it's ok to use an adjustable spanner on this fitting as it shouldn't be too tight and is a normal right hand thread - an AN wrench has the advantage of not marking the anodised finish on the fitting as much)
... then remove the adaptor fitting from the top of the GDU. It is also normal right handed thread and is 28mm I think.
There should be a Dowty washer (sometimes also known as a 'bonded seal' washer) underneath.... if it's not damaged these are OK to re-use in this location because they aren't permanently 'submerged' under oil level (being at the top of the gearcase)
Got it. So I can use a 28mm with impact wrench counter clockwise to remove the bolt. It was so tight that I don't want to make a stupid mistake.
Thank you and Happy Chinese New Year.
@pugdaddy .... should never have been that tight!... maybe someone used thread locking compound? This adaptor fitting should only ever really need to be tightened enough to make the dowty washer underneath seal... not very tight at all.
@charleyhradicalsportscarregistry-com
I'm following your steps for the GDU oil change and I'm not getting any oil to cycle through the cooler. I've tried rotating the rear wheels in neutral and in all the gears without success.
I have about 1,5 L in there of fresh oil in there.
Am I maybe not turning them fast enough?
@charleyhradicalsportscarregistry-com
I'm following your steps for the GDU oil change and I'm not getting any oil to cycle through the cooler. I've tried rotating the rear wheels in neutral and in all the gears without success.
I have about 1,5 L in there of fresh oil in there.
Am I maybe not turning them fast enough?
Hi James (@tertre-rouge), Sometimes you need to rotate the wheels a bit faster to get the pump to prime, especially if the car hasn't run for a while. One trick that helps is to prime the GDU pump with gear oil. You can do this by removing the inlet line from the GDU pump (see the attached picture) and instal a short (~12") piece of oil line to the inlet and hold the hose vertically and then pour some gear fluid in the hose. Then rotate the wheels and the fluid will pump through the pump and prime it. Then remove this line and reinstall your normal inlet line and the pump should pump normally when you rotate the wheels.
@tertre-rouge .. G'day James... this is a well worn question. See the thread below and take particular notice of the need to 'prime' the pump circuit (probably mainly the pump suction line) before you will get any flow.
I've done this on my own car many times, and also on a friends car and this has worked on every occasion...
To give the needed vacuum I use a large syringe (bought online for less than $30) or if you have a vacuum bleeder form your brakes then you could also use that.
This post is more detailed and touches on the same subject...
@charleyhradicalsportscarregistry-com 🍺 Cheers! Worked a treat, thank you.
