Okay, it all works as advertised!
I got it out to the track last Friday, and everything went as planned. installation laps for break in.
since I did put a oil temp sensor in the oil scav pump, I could compare oil temps coming out of the engine and going back in the engine, and the out temps were about 25-30degF higher than what was reading on the gauge/ecu as read in the dry sump tank. that was a 95F day running 1 strip of tape in the inlet. so if you see 200 on the gauge, then the oil is at least 230 coming out of the engine.
back in the garage, oil changed and all screens and drain plug inspected, nothing found. rechecked valve lash (since new valves were installed) some changed by .01mm, but did not need to change any shims.
thanks for everyone's interest or input into this thread.
Do you remember how you removed your throttle cable? I'm following another guide and it just says to remove the tension on the cable then unloop it. I can't figure out how to "remove the tension" on the cable. It looks like there's an allen screw above the cable barrel but not sure if I need to remove that.
You loosen the tension at the foot pedal. There is an adjuster that can be used and a barrel that can be loosened. But you should be able to remove the cable without loosening it. There is a fixed end barrel end on the throttle body side. Rotate “actuate” the throttle bodies to put slack in the cable and then rotate the cable around about 90 degrees so that the cable will fit through the slot on the bell crank
