I am about to do my first oil change this weekend. I searched the web and found several different opinions on whether the engine needs to be warm before changing the oil. There is also conflicting info on where to drain the oil. Any advice. Pics of where to drain the oil would be helpful.
Assuming it is a dry sump engine drain the oil tank from the main oil feed pipe to the sump.
Also remove the sump bung from the oil pan and drain that (even though its dry sump there is still a surprising amount of oil in the pan).
Cold is fine, unless it is really cold, just allow a little longer for it to drain out. Also means no chance of burning yourself!
Make sure you dry crank the engine for oil pressure before firing it up.
Oil and GDU fluid change completed this weekend! An FYI for anyone doing this for the first time, there are some large bolts on the engine and oil lines going to the engine. I started the job not realizing I needed a 32mm, 28mm, 26mm and 17mm wrenches. I used an adjustable wrench to get by it was not optimal.
As an aside, several of those larger fittings are AN fittings - grab an AN wrench or 3 and they will help ensure you don't bend/break anything.
My first oil change. I have fully loosened the oil line at the sump, but I cannot seem to move the line and fitting out of the way to allow the oil to drain fast. Is there a way to wiggle the end of the oil line to the sump out of the way, or is this unnecessary? Should I disconnect both ends -- from the tank and the sump, or just the sump end?
Thanks in advance.
I always loosen from the can side, it's quite a bit easier to get off.
Thank you Garrett.
I ended up loosening both ends and removing the line which might have provided a little better access to safety wire the 17mm sump plug. Messy though, and a lift would make this a whole lot easier.
Dumb question: what is AN wrench, have not heard that before? What is different from normal wrench?
AN stands for Army and Navy. I don't know the exact origin, but I believe that an AN hose fitting was used by Army and Navy for aircraft, and these became known as AN hose fittings.
Do you need an AN wrench for an AN fitting? They worked well for me and do not round the corners or mar the finish. I can tell some fittings on my car are rounded, e.g. the GDU oil fill line, perhaps because someone did not use and AN wrench on it.
The large orange wrench below (16) is what I used for the oil line from the tank to the sump.
AN is indeed Army Navy, and came about during WWII as the US government designed a standard thread, taper, and hose size to help get compatibility among all the various American manufacturers at the time as well as the Army and Navy. 🙂
Hi there!
I have changed my oil for the first time today but i have the problem that i think there are some parts of the oil circuit that arent filling correctly.
I cannot see the oil level in the side lf the angine as i used tl before changing it and i only filled it with more or less 6 liters, from the 9 liters manuals say it should have.
What should I do to fill the engine oil correctly? What mistakes did I make?
@ezabala8 .. Hi Erik,
From what I can understand of your message you have drained your engine, then put around 6 litres into the dry sump tank (and it probably look pretty full after that).
I'm assuming you have also changed your engine oil filter as well?
To complete the job I normally;
- removed the engines spark plugs (this takes load off the engine/starter when cranking for the first time)
- Unplug the crank trigger sensor. This is the smaller of the two plugs on the wires that come out of the generator cover on the left hand side of the engine - the plug is normally down on the bottom chassis rail where the rest of the wring loom is zip-tied and near the chassis earth point. (unplugging this prevents the ECU from firing the fuel injectors when you crank the car which will simply flood the engine unnecessarily with fuel)
- crank the engine over with the 'spark ignition switch' in the off position (no need to fire the ignition coils if the plugs are out). When cranking the engine, I normally do it in about 4 second 'bursts' with about 10 seconds in between each one. (This prevents the wires and fuse to the starter getting too hot.) While you do this you should watch for oil pressure rising. Once you see oil pressure you know you have filled the oil filter and moved some oil into the engine oil galleries. It normally takes no more than three or four of these 'bursts'
- Check the oil level in the dry sump tank and fill it up again if it's dropped a bit.
- Put the spark plugs back in - not much torque required!, re-plug the crank trigger sensor into the loom and then start the car as normal.
- Let the car warm up to at least 50 or 55 degrees C oil and water temp.
- Then re-check and add oil according to what you see on the dipstick in the dry sump tank as per the procedure for this in the manual
.. job should then be done.
Hi there,
Now i have filled the tank and the engine with oil and now it had 60psi of oil pressure as it should.
However as i run the engine, the pressure started decreasing a bit as the oil started to move from the engine, from the part of the clutch discs, to the oil tank.
I suspect the original oil pump may be Broken,
Any of you know what could be happening?
Thanks
