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Drive Shaft Removal question

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Ron Van Tuyl
(@schneller)
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I am in the process of removing the drive shafts for servicing.  I have detached the upper upright and rotated the rear hub down.  The drive shaft exits the GDU easily however removal of the opposite end seems very stuck and tight.  Is there a retaining bolt I need to loosen to remove the driveshaft housing from the hub assembly Ive indicated on the photo?  I have read several posts but haven't seen a mention of a bolt that needs to come loose.   Any info and insight would be much appreciated!
 

IMG 3152

 


   
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CharleyH
(@charleyhradicalsportscarregistry-com)
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The axle should pull right out of the upright. It helps if you can get the axle to start moving before the upright rotates too much.  Try and keep axle in the GDU and start removing the axle from the upright first.


   
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Ron Van Tuyl
(@schneller)
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CharleyX

Thanks for the response.  I have tried what you mentioned but still the metal housing is firmly stuck to the wheel hub.  Even a little gentle prying wont budge it.  Could there be some surface rust binding up the coupling with the hub?  Would it hurt anything to spray some anti-seize in that area?

The GDU coupling comes out easily.  Its the wheel hub housing that is the problem.  

Thanks again!


   
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John Parsons
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@charleyhradicalsportscarregistry-com On my SR8s, there's a bolt on the upright side, accessed from the wheel side of the upright.


   
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CharleyH
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Posted by: @parsonsj

@charleyhradicalsportscarregistry-com On my SR8s, there's a bolt on the upright side, accessed from the wheel side of the upright.

 

Interesting.  Mine just came right out.  Perhaps this was changed on later cars?

 


   
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John Parsons
(@parsonsj)
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@charleyhradicalsportscarregistry-com Could be. Or maybe the V8s are different? I think this might be a question for "Ask Phil" ? 🙂

 


   
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Ron Van Tuyl
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Ok.  Got it worked out.  The metal tripod joint housing had surface rust and was stuck in the hub.  I think the splines had rusted and fused to the hub side.  I sprayed penetrating oil in the area in question and waited a few hours.  Then I applied heat with a heat gun. I then used 2 small pry bars at 180 degrees to apply equal  force to the joint housing and was able to get it to release.  The other side came out without an issue.  Whew, Glad thats over!


   
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Rod Bender
(@rjbender)
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@schneller - G'day Ron,  You can see the end of the shaft up the middle of the hub.  I think another way around that issue would have been to use a brass drift (... or even a piece of hardwood that would fit) to knock the splined end of the driveshaft through the centre of the hub. I suspect that once you had moved it just a mm or two it would have freed it up and removal would have been easy from that point.  Nothing wrong with what you have done, but just wanted to point out another possible solution.

As you suggest in your original post - I've always applied copper anti-seize to the splines before reinstalling these... and since doing that I have never had any issue.


   
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Ron Van Tuyl
(@schneller)
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Rod,

Good advice.  I can see now that tapping on the drive shaft end would have worked also.  I saw that when I was working but was unsure since this was the first time I had done this on a Radical and did not want to cause damage.  But now, after removal,  its abundantly clear!

I will use the penetrating oil on the splines during reassembly.  Good idea.  That will prevent repeat problems.

I have the tripod housings prepared and taped up ready for paint.  I saw your previous post on how good it looked after painting so taking the time to do that also. Appreciate the previous write up.  It made the whole process much easier.   

 


   
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