Hello,
I searched for this topic but wasn't able to find an exact answer. I purchased a new Radical a year ago and ran it this summer, overall it has been a great car although I am still feeling my way through it. I am working in the off season (winter here in Chicago) to prep for April and am trying to identify a list of spares to keep in the garage. I don't think I need to go as far as a spare engine but would like to keep a small stock of bolts, nuts, dzus, etc parts in stock.
Has anyone kept a list of smaller bits that they have found helpful to have on hand?
Thank you
Kevin
Hi Kevin. What model and year Radical did you purchase? I am familiar with SR3 only.
The fasteners you need depends on how much work you plan on doing yourself and how you drive. The main categories are:
- Allen head screws (socket head, button head, flange button head, flat head). Mostly M6 various lengths. Some M5, M8.
- Hex head and hex flange head bolts. Mostly M5. Sometimes need to replace an M8
- adjustable hose clamps
- Oetiker 7mm stepless clamps 89mm -- lots of four each time you service the axles (this is specific to SR3, but may fit other models)
- 5/32 and 3/16 blind rivets in various grip ranges. Occasionally 1/8 blind rivets. These cars use lots of different types of blind rivets that you cannot find locally. In europe, sizes are metric.
- backing washers for blind rivets
- peel type multi-grip range rivets big and small head 5/32 and 3/16
- washers various sizes
- Nylock nuts for m5-m8m10. There might be some other non metric nuts. (3/8-24)
- lots of black zip ties various lengths.
- sealing washers for engine oil drain plug and GDU hose fittings
- M5 and M6 helicoil inserts
- blue and red threadlocker
- gray silicon gasket maker
- body parts fasteners: quarter turn and buckles. I recommend only using Radical parts for these.
I am sure there is more, and it would be difficult to catalog every fastener length and type. There are larger bolts which I am unsure of the size. Probably M10, or they may be imperial (they are 3/8-24), however I rarely need to replace any of these, although I do replace the nuts when the nylon insert wears.
In all cases, I recommend carbon alloy steel over stainless fasteners because they hold up better and can be picked up with a magnet or stored in a magnetic parts tray. It does not matter whether you use black oxide or zinc plated. I use hardened class 10.9 matching nuts and bolts for everything. (actually 12.9 for small bolts and 10.9 for larger)
Belmetric has every fastener I have ever needed for an SR3 (except for the body parts fasteners), and I like ordering from them. I have also ordered from McMaster.
It is handy to have a pneumatic riveter. I purchased an Astro Pneumatic from Amazon for $97.
As you are servicing your car, take time to note the length, diameter, and thread pitch for each fastener so you know what you may need. Likewise for washers, rivets, etc.
The suspension bushing bolts and nuts are 3/8-24 size. I bought 40 of the nylon insert locknuts from McMaster, grade 8. part number 90630A155.
I looked at some of my Belmetric orders, and I used grade 12.9 for M5 and M6 bolts. 10.9 for M8. Honestly, I don't really know what is required but for the smaller screws they are all 12.9 at Belmetric. The only M8 bolt I recall replacing is the top bolt for the GDU.
@davidf David, that's a great list of suppliers, tools, and hardware. I have nothing to add, other than to extol the virtues of Milwaukee 12v (not the 18v stuff, they are too big!) tools, including their rivet tool. M12™ Rivet Tool (Tool Only) (milwaukeetool.com)
I checked some past Belmetric orders. I think, but unsure, that 16mm length M6 screws are most common, followed by 12mm M6. I also think these are common lengths (12mm & 16mm) for M5. It is best to take time to measure the length of various fasteners on the car, especially those for frequent removal and adjustment. For example, the subwing bolts (be extra careful not to over-torque these. Just barely snug), wing attachment bolts, front and rear diffuser bolts.
David, I think I just bought out Belmetric across a number of sizes and lengths. I am now guaranteed that even though I have purchased a wide assortment of bolts, washers, and nuts I will find the unique example of a bolt I need but did not procure.
Thank you so much again for the help.
Kevin
I am glad that I could help. McMaster has a lot of the rivets for the car. Here is one that I found from a past order:
High-Strength Blind Rivets for Soft Materials
5/32" Diameter, for 0.354"- 0.422" Material Thickness
https://www.mcmaster.com/%2393372A365&source=gmail&ust=1704459993243000&usg=AOvVaw0vaypNpH-o9OM5YGYqcmp K">93372A365
I have also purchased rivets from speedwaymotors.com, pegasusautoracing.com, and blindrivetsupply.com -- the latter has the largest selection but can be confusing unless you are a rivet expert or you know exactly what you need. Some of these are expensive, but you don't need to purchase expensive rivets. I have used only aluminum rivets on my SR3.
My race team techs use the Milwaukee puller that @parsonj recommended. I think you cannot go wrong with that unless you need to use 1/4 inch rivets which I have used on my trailer; there are no rivets bigger than 3/16 in the Radical.
I like the peel type rivets because they work well in fiberglass body parts and have a wide grip range, but the folding type should also work well. In fiberglass parts where you need strength and where there is access, for example to fasten the aluminum vanes to the rear diffuser, regular blind rivets with a backing washer works well and will not damage the fiberglass.
