The shifter block uses 4 wires (2 for up and 2 for down shift). Each side should have a 12v supply, and the ECU (or GCU on older cars) pulls the corresponding wire to ground to make the shift happen.
That makes sense. Looking at the pin-out the fifth pin (pin number 3 in the diagram) would be used to trigger the throttle blipper in the later versions of the system. Since the first generation throttle blippers (like on this car) had the trigger wire going directly to the blipper, there would be no wire at the shifter valve block. In the later systems the blipper trigger wire goes the the shifter valve block and would use a 5th wire (going to pin 3).
To help visualize the difference between the different blippers. The first version of the blipper system used trigger wires going directly to the pneumatic throttle blipper (as shown in this picture).
The second version of the throttle blipper looked similar to first blipper, but it didn't have any trigger wires going to it. The second and third generation trigger commands were sent to the pneumatic shift block which directs air pressure to the blipper when commanded.
The third style blipper is silver and has no wires going to it.
First, thanks to everyone for giving feedback and helping. I think I’m/we’re getting to the root of the problem.
From what I can tell, I have a red, red/black, blue (ripped off), grey and yellow wires; the yellow goes to the bottom unused connection. Does anyone have any idea what type of connector this is? I’ve tried my best to pull off the wiring casing to expose the connector pins, but I don’t think this is going to be feasible.
I’m going to reach out to a few of my motorcycle buddies who make race harnesses to see if they have any ideas.
Attached are some crappy pics - it's hard to get good photos from underneath the car, while holding the camera, light and harness.
I would give Spring Mountain a call. They have seen every conceivable issue dozens of times and will know the best way to fix it. And they will have the needed parts. They have been so helpful to me in the past, they have shipped me special tools to do a job and then I shipped them back.
I would give Spring Mountain a call. They have seen every conceivable issue dozens of times and will know the best way to fix it. And they will have the needed parts. They have been so helpful to me in the past, they have shipped me special tools to do a job and then I shipped them back.
Charley
Great idea Charley. Sent an email to them with some pics and I’ll give them a call tomorrow.
Ahhhh. Well...... after 4 weeks..... it shifts!!! As I noted earlier, the blue wire into the valve block harness was pulled out. Some different techniques and we got it re-wired and after getting volume back in the compressor it shifted up / down and down/up. All correctly......
Now to get her out on the track for an actual test.
Thanks to everyone for their help - Spring Mountain was very helpful in explaining how to remove a $5 clip so I could get the system working.
To help visualize the difference between the different blippers. The first version of the blipper system used trigger wires going directly to the pneumatic throttle blipper (as shown in this picture).
The second version of the throttle blipper looked similar to first blipper, but it didn't have any trigger wires going to it. The second and third generation trigger commands were sent to the pneumatic shift block which directs air pressure to the blipper when commanded.
The third style blipper is silver and has no wires going to it.
Charley
I updated one of my previous posts to include pictures of the three styles of blippers.
Brandon, did the system attempt to upshift and failed or it never tried? I'm having a similar problem. Unlike you I can upshift no problem but have trouble downshifting when driving hard on track (I can do it when pottering around in the pits). When I press the paddle to downshift I can hear the usual pneumatic sound but it fails to complete the downshift. Is this similar to what you experienced or in your case the shift was never initiated? (I also sent you a PM in case you no longer follow the topic now that your issue has been resolved)
Nikolay - in my case, the shift never initiated because the wiring harness was clearly torn. In your case, and Charley will probably add in, I think yours sounds like a potential sensor issue. I went through some diagnostic steps, see the attached here related to the downshift -
Ensure blip is between 20- 35% (it doesnt say of what)
Also check it is blipping mechanically at the actuator end
