Is it a big deal to convert a 1300 car to 1500? How much difference is there? How difficult and costly is it to add paddle shifting?
Can someone describe the process for sequential shifting in these cars? Clutch from stop to get moving and then push forward or back to shift up or down without clutch? Do you need to lift to shift? Have always driven manual cars on track so this is new to me.
Are there any issues to watch for? Maybe a certain part that should be upgraded on a particular generation? Every race car I’ve owned has had a few. Miatas have hub issues and control arms need to be strengthened, m3 was known for tearing upper shock towers, srf breaks half shafts if come back on track under power and now has a lot of trans issues with the 3rd gen.
Nothing on these cars is a big deal... It just cost money. The 1300 and 1500 engines are the same on the outside so if you purchased one it would fit where the 1300 was. But you would need to change the programming in the computer and since the ECU's are locked, I believe it would have to be one of the Radical shops, or perhaps George Dean could do it. If you wanted to convert a 1300 to a 15oo you need to get a new crankshaft, pistons, and possibly connecting rods. Also there are some spots on the cases that need to be machined out for clearance.
Adding paddle shifting isn't too difficult but I have been told that it cost about $10,000. The add on paddle shifters are very good, but they are not as good as the cars that come from the factory with the Life paddle shift systems. I am referring to Gen 2 cars (SR3 RS) with Life ECU's. When a car is purchased new with the paddle shifting system it is integrated into the ECU and it provides additional safety features. For example the ECU will not let you make a shift that will damage the engine. On the stand alone systems you don't get that protection. You would be surprised how easy it is to cause an over rev.
Regarding how you do the shifting...In the paddle shifted cars the clutch is used to start moving. It is also recommended to use the clutch when getting up to speed (coming out of the pit). From that point on you just hit the paddles for shifting while out on the track (you don't need to lift from the throttle). I have never driven a "snicker" shift car (they are called that because you "Snick" them into gear) but I have been told that you slightly let up on the gas to relieve pressure on the rears and then snick it into the next higher gear. Then when down shifting you need to use heal/toe. I have been told that once you get accustom to using the snicker shifters they are great. With that said, the Paddle shifting is nothing short of amazing.
As far as what to look for by generation, I always recommend to buy the newest car with the lowest amount of engine and chassis hours that you can afford. Also, it is worth paying a premium for a car with a documented maintenance history. Differed maintenance can add a lot to your total ownership costs. As far as common watch areas, you need to look at the half shafts because they do break. You should look at the suspension mounting areas for signs of cracks (they can be welded). The uprights are another area to check. If there is too much play in the bearings they need to be replaced. Also, you need to find out the age of the fuel cell (if it has one). The cars could be purchased with either aluminum tanks or Fuel cells. Fuel cells are safer and are required by every race sanctioning body that I am aware of. However, fuel cells are only certified for 5 years, so if the car you are looking at is over 5 years old you will likely need to replace the fuel cell. Many people don't thing about the certification if they are not racing, but this is unwise. When the cells age they deteriorate and crack which could be a problem in a crash.
Charley
I'm sure I could work up a MoTeC (replacing the locked Life ECU) solution for the 1500 that would support paddle shifting, with engine protections etc.
If one were so inclined...
Thanks again for the information. This has changed the direction I was intending to go.
What direction are you planning to go?
Charley
Charley,
Taking your advice and looking for newer car now. Looking for a second gen car with 1500 and life paddles with high down force kit.
I keep track of the cars that are available so if you would like some help finding a car you can email me (CharleyH@RadicalSportscarRegistry.com). If you let me know: what you would like in the car (if you know), How you plan to use the car (track days, racing, etc), The City / State where you live, and your target budget...I can likely point you to some cars that could be good fits.
Charley
Since this thread is for Newbies, I am looking for an SR3. I am in discussion with a couple of sellers. Many of the ads include chassis hours used. How are the hours calculated? Is is part of the AIM or estimated hours based on miles driven. Someone told me it was Actual miles driven/95 mph per hour (using 95 mph as estimated speed on track). Does this sound correct? Do cars with high chassis hours need a refresh? If yes, what are considered the number of hours before significant work needs to be done (with cost of course)!
Since this thread is for Newbies, I am looking for an SR3. I am in discussion with a couple of sellers. Many of the ads include chassis hours used. How are the hours calculated? Is is part of the AIM or estimated hours based on miles driven. Someone told me it was Actual miles driven/95 mph per hour (using 95 mph as estimated speed on track). Does this sound correct? Do cars with high chassis hours need a refresh? If yes, what are considered the number of hours before significant work needs to be done (with cost of course)!
Hi John, Welcome to the Forum. Chassis hours are sometimes known and sometimes estimated. Some cars have Hobbs meters that record the actual time the car is in use. If a newer car (mid 2009 or newer) has never had an engine overhaul you can get the total hours from the Life ECU, but this get's cleared every time the engine is overhauled. Also, sometimes people get the information off of the AiM dash. Unfortunately a lot of the time people just estimate the hours. If you know what to look for there are visual indicators that clue you in to roughly how many hours are on the chassis and if the sellers is being accurate in what they are stating. I have never heard of the 95 mph formula. The reason it is good to know how many chassis hours are on the car is because it can be a good indicator of how worn the car is. There is a section of the owners manual (see the Resource Library) that gives the life expectancy of many of the key components, but this is a guide and is highly dependent on how hard the car is driven. A car that is competitively raced by a fast driver will wear out components much faster that a car that is driven for "track day" use by a cautious driver.
If you are looking to get a car I am happy to help. I keep track of the cars that are on the market (and some that are about to come on the market) and I can usually point you to good cars, and away from cars that appear to be suspect. Also if you let me know what cars you are considering, I am happy to give you my opinion of them. If you are interested you can email me at CharleyH@RadicalSpoortscarRegistry.com. There is no charge for this service (although some people I have helped have made donations to the Registry, but nothing is required or expected). The following information is helpful in pointing you to a good car that fits your needs: 1) What options are you thinking you would like in the car (Engine size, color, air jacks, headlights, etc)? If you know. 2) where are you located. I ask this because I will try to point you to cars that are closer to you. 3) What is your intended use for the car? Do you want to use it for track days, or do you plan to race it? 4) When do you plan to buy? Are you ready to buy?, or learning so you can buy in the future? 5) What is your target budget.
Also, if you have not read it yet, I highly recommend reading the "Radical SR3 Buyers guide that is located in the Resource Library. It will give you a brief history of how the cars have developed over time and should help you narrow down what would like to get in the car. Here is a link to the Buyers guide: https://radicalsportscarregistry.com/radical-sr3-buyers-guide/
Charley
Dear Charley
Thanks for the detailed explanation. I have read the Buyers guide. Great material! I am located in Utah and will race at UMC. I am also considering a membership at Spring Mountain and hope to get to the West Coast to race. I started racing on the East Coast and just moved west. I am looking forward to racing on this side of the country!! I will reach out if I need help. I hope to have a car soon!
I am happy to help if you have any questions. If you want to have a ton of fun in a drivers paradise, Spring Mountain is a great place to be. It is run by an amazing team of people and their racing series is very competitive, but is more like a group of close (super competitive) friends having fun together.
Charley
