I was at a track day today, first session on the 3rd lap turning right into a hairpin, just as I got on power "bang" and instant spin 1/2 way through the turn. After that I had no drive, car wouldn't even budge.
Got towed back to the pits, did a quick visual and nothing obvious. Got the rear wheels off the ground... Engine running, put it in gear and the rear wheels started spinning..... My friend then put his foot on the tire and was able to stop the tire fairly easily.
With the car back on the ground, not running, in first gear the car rolled forward way to easily, as in not turning the engine over. At this point I'm thinking a gear broke in the trans. Got the car back up in the air, rolled both rear wheels forward at the same time by hand and a hell of a grinding noise was coming from the trans output shaft/trans casing.
It's looking like I get to pull my trans out for the first time... Do I need to pull the engine and trans out at the same time? Just seperate the gdu and the usual items to pull the engine and trans out as one?
Im looking for some feedback/tips/suggestions/input as I start this venture.
What car model and year? Does your car have a Quaife GDU? Check axles, engine output drive shaft, GDU input drive shaft, the couplers that couple the engine drive shaft to the GDU input drive shaft, etc. Inspect the splines on each axle and shaft. If your engine shifts through the gears, then possibly the transmission is not damaged.
What car model and year? Does your car have a Quaife GDU? Check axles, engine output drive shaft, GDU input drive shaft, the couplers that couple the engine drive shaft to the GDU input drive shaft, etc. Inspect the splines on each axle and shaft. If your engine shifts through the gears, then possibly the transmission is not damaged.
2003 SR3 1340 K8 (radical spec'd)
Yes to the Quailfe GDU
I will starting the disassembly/closer inspection tonight.
Sounds similar to the my issue in outward symptoms. The biggest clue to my problem was attempting to shift gears - the car would only go from 1 - N - 2. It would not shift to 3rd.
The GDU will come out without removing the engine and vice versa, but if it is the transmission the engine is definitely coming out.
First find.....
Also won't shift higher than 4th gear...
Well damn.....
So I have a tooth broken on the final drive gearset, a tooth broken on the gdu gears, not sure which yet as I have to buy the sockets to remove the final drive gears to get to that one allen key behind the gears.
The output shaft from the trans has been sheared off! See red line.
I'm guessing the teeth broke in the gdu, that broken tooth jammed the gdu from spinning at all which in turn sheared the trans driveshaft.
Wow, at least you know where your problems are. My guess is that something large got stuck in the GDU gear which caused the gear to break which in turn caused the other issues. How many hours are on the engine and GDU? Do you know who overhauled the GDU last time? The reason I ask is the bearing on your input shaft looks like it has a lot of time on it, so I suspect your GDU has quite a few hours / miles. With chunks that size going through your system I would consider changing your GDU radiator as well.
Josh, you mentioned that your engine is 1340cc K8 but that looks like a Gen 1 engine to me, although I would need to see more photos to be sure. There is a chance that it could be a Gen 1 engine with a 1340cc crank and rods.
That output shaft looks like a Gen 1 item and that is a weakpoint of them, although as Charley mentions its likely the GDU going has caused the shaft to snap. When rebuilding the engine/gearbox a heavy duty output shaft can be fitted or the later one from a Gen 2 engine to make this area stronger. A new drive coupling to suit will also be required if you did this though.
Josh, you mentioned that your engine is 1340cc K8 but that looks like a Gen 1 engine to me, although I would need to see more photos to be sure. There is a chance that it could be a Gen 1 engine with a 1340cc crank and rods.
That output shaft looks like a Gen 1 item and that is a weakpoint of them, although as Charley mentions its likely the GDU going has caused the shaft to snap. When rebuilding the engine/gearbox a heavy duty output shaft can be fitted or the later one from a Gen 2 engine to make this area stronger. A new drive coupling to suit will also be required if you did this though.
I am quite unfamiliar with the visual differences but I have been told by a couple different people that are smarter than me that its a K8.
@charleyhradicalsportscarregistry-com
The engine hour meter says 39hrs, I have no idea on the who did what when except what I was told by Radical Canada West and even that was vague.
I was also planning on the cooler change, any suggestions on what to buy for that? I do not care if it conforms to radical spec as I will never run in the series.
Josh, you mentioned that your engine is 1340cc K8 but that looks like a Gen 1 engine to me, although I would need to see more photos to be sure.
Apparently gen 1s start with w701 and gen2 x70
This is my engine serial number...
@meatman the easiest way to tell the k7 from the k8 is to look at the valve cover. The k8’s have a plate over the top of the plug wires that has to be removed to take out the spark plugs and the k7 does not.
In this picture you can see the plate that covers the k8 plug wires.
@meatman I agree with Dan. If the engine has no seal, all bets are off on what makes up this engine. Regardless of OEM case stamping (which would have been removed & changed at RPE) it is clearly a GEN 1 output shaft, spacer and seal. Be careful ordering parts if you are not familiar with the differences.
@meatman I agree with Dan. If the engine has no seal, all bets are off on what makes up this engine. Regardless of OEM case stamping (which would have been removed & changed at RPE) it is clearly a GEN 1 output shaft, spacer and seal. Be careful ordering parts if you are not familiar with the differences.
Thanks for the forewarning, I will take it to heart when ordering parts.
