JUST cant c it ??? enlarge please
What is it you are trying to see?
Okay, it's completely back together and I am adding fluids.
Do I need to prime the oil system at all?
G'day Josh,
I certainly did.... here's the process I used but I'd be interested in anyone else's views if I missed any tips/tricks...
- Fill with oil in the dry sump tank to between the top lines on the dipstick
- Disconnect the crank rotation sensor plug (the one with the yellow and blue wires I think - it is normally located near the black anodised gear change solenoid box on the left hand chassis rail). Disconnecting this means the ECU won't see the crankshaft rotation and prevents it firing the fuel injectors - so you won't be 'flooding' the engine with fuel (washing the oil off the rings/pistons/bores) when cranking.
- Remove all 4 spark plugs. This simply takes the cranking load off the starter and batteries.
- Remove the (M6?) bolt from the left hand end of the engines cylinder head (see picture below) - using a 10mm AF ring spanner. This bolt plugs an oil gallery that is in the top end of the engines camshaft journal. Oil will come out of here when the oil system is fully primed (hold a cloth under the hole while someone else cranks the engine)
- Get a friend to crank the engine (with the ignition system in the OFF position) until oil emerges from the cylinder heads oil gallery. If you have a new/rebuilt engine and a new/empty oil filter, then this can take a few seconds (maybe 8-12 seconds from memory)
- Once oil comes out of the bolt hole, stop cranking, put the bolt back in (I applied some hydraulic sealant to the threads....), re-connect the crank position sensor plug, put the spark plugs back in, and re-check the dry sump oil level (you will most likely need to top it back up)
- When you have done all that you should be able to start the engine as normal... and remember to check you have oil pressure straight away after starting...
- Finally - remember you will have to warm it up and then go through the normal procedure to finally check the dry sump level is correct (revving to ~4000rpm and then check level, etc)
Hope that helps... and that I didn't miss to much?
I would say I have been rather successful in this rebuild. Started up just fine runs fine and cycles through the gears just fine.
On Sunday I plan to blast up the street to see how it is under load and if all is well off to a track day on October 10th.
Thank you for all your help guys!
Washed and ready for full test day next Monday!
This may be paranoia... The GDU was rebuilt by radical canada west, when just off idle there is a rattling noise that is coming from the GDU. As soon as any gas pedal input is applied the noise goes away.... When the clutch is engaged the noise goes away.
Is there a break in period for these?
Thoughts/feedback please...
https://photos.app.goo.gl/nQm3RW8iS2FHDoKz7
GDU gear set lash... Is that acceptable?
Well apparently it was not a problem, first session out was a tremendous amount of fun.
4 full sessions and no problems.
Most fun I've had in the car since I bought it, those 3.54 gears are just nuts for acceleration!
FYI, this is what a re-built GDU gives you in parts...
@rlm-dan Hi Dan. Going through my maintenance period at the moment and would like to go the APE heavy duty output shaft, shift shafts and selector forks. Do you know where to get the larger coupling to suit the larger output shaft?
@kirk what model/year of SR3 do you have?
If you have a car with a Gen 2 based engine then there is no need to upgrade the output shaft as this is already stronger than the Gen 1 based engine. Depending on when it was last rebuilt it will most likely already have billet selector fork shafts fitted.
If you have a Gen 1 engine then I would recommend fitting the Gen 2 output shaft, although you need one other part to make it fit - best to discuss via e-mail.
To answer your question though Radical UK used to offer a coupling to suit that output shaft, assuming it is the Honda spline, but I don't think they stock them anymore. You would need to find someone to spark erode yours to suit. If you went down the route of fitting a Gen 2 output shaft the coupling is then off the shelf from any Radical dealer.
@rlm-dan its a 2011 with a gen 2 engine. Guess that's one of the shopping list. Ill check again but I don't think the selector forks are billet though.
@kirk perfect, stick with the output shaft you have then.
The shafts for the selector forks will already be billet.
The selectors forks will currently be OEM, every Radical engine uses OEM ones as standard and in general do not suffer from problems, just the odd one requiring replacement due to wear on rebuilds - not sure on pricing etc in comparison but personally I see no reason to replace OEM ones with something different.
