My setup is a Featherlite 4926 20 foot bumper pull trailer which I recently acquired from the original owner who purchased it new in 2012. It is all aluminum, including the flooring which is extruded aluminum -- ribbed for extra strength and stiffness. Underneath the flooring are sturdy aluminum I-beam crossmembers every 12 inches. The previous owner used it mainly for hauling motorcycles, atvs, and off-road vehicles. He welded L-track on both sides along the length of the trailer, and there are factory installed D-rings through the flooring -- two in front and two in rear.
The D-rings would be my preferred method of tying down a vehicle because these are secured through additional 1/4 inch plates which are welded between two crossmembers, however because of the inner placement I will probably have to use the L-track to tie down my Radical.
Any thoughts on whether the L-track will have sufficient strength for my SR3? The fittings on the L-track are sturdy double-stud type. Pictures below.
My SR3 has wheel tie down pins, however I am considering using an 8-point tie down system which would distribute the load over two L-track mounting points per wheel. Has anyone used this method on your Radical or formula style race car?
I'm not sure I would trust those tie downs. I would feel better if they were bolted down periodically or even better if some new D rings were installed further outboard. The method I have been using is to install D rings in front of, and behind each of the rear wheels and use two straps on each wheel to hold the car in place. I then use one strap per wheel in the front that is only slightly tightened to keep the nose from moving. By using this method the back of the car is held tightly in place and you don't have to crack down on the front which could potentially affect alignment.
Using the tiedown method you pictured would be possible, but challenging due to how little clearance there is around the wheels and how wide the tires are. I think it is just easier to use the tow rings.
I would have to agree with Charley on this one. I have been using the axle tie downs. 4 points into D-rings has been plenty sufficient for my car. I've been to the track many times in this configuration and have been super happy with how it travels. The bonus is that it is super easy to load/unload and tie down.
We have L-track in the trailer and only tie down lighter items to that. If you want a track system, I think E-track would be the only option I would consider for a car.
I would agree with others here, that the best way to secure the car is using the D-Rings. I have used tie-down straps like the ones you have shown in your original post (although on a VW Golf R Track Car), and I suspect you would need to remove the front and rear bodywork sections to get the straps properly in place over the wheels... definitely not worth the hassle in my opinion.
In terms of the "L-Track" you have I think the way it is welded to the extruded floor sections in your trailer would be fine. If you were concerned you could add extra welds in between what is already there...?
I wonder if the fittings that go into the L-Track would handle loads though?? My experience is with 'E-Track" and that would definitely work... are you sure of the load rating on the L-track fittings?
Here are some photos of my set up. Brian James 'Race Sports' Trailer.
I use three tie downs per side, two on the rear and one on the front.
To limit the chance of 'pulling on the alignment' at the front, I came up with the idea to run the strap vertically down from the D-Ring, through a turning eye,. and back to the same attachment point that I use for the rear strap that runs forward..... definitely limits the chance of pulling the alignment out... while still holding the front of the car in place.
Thank you all for your reply. Your doubts/concern reinforced my doubts, so I will install additional D-rings.
I did a lot of research over a couple of days, and I while I believe now that the L-track may or would work and the fittings would handle the load, I do not want to risk damage my car or my trailer; I believe it is best to be safe than sorry. I also want peace of mind which means I never want to be worried as I am trailering my car, wondering whether everything is OK in the trailer. I will install additional swivel type D-rings, rated at 2000 working load limit (WLL), through the floor and reinforced with 1/4 inch 5083 aluminum plates welded between the crossmembers. The choice of aluminum reinforcement is another matter entirely, and I am no expert so I sent an email to the trailer manufacturer to be sure. They use 6061 T6 3/16. I used 5083-H116 1/4 inch aluminum between the crossmembers to reinforce my winch and this plate felt very sturdy as I tightened the bolts, so I think I will go with this again for the new D-rings installation.
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What I learned:
There is blog at US Cargo Control where they say that there are different varieties of L-track and an article which basically says that Airline style L-track is the strongest, but that all of their L-track types will support the WLL of any of the fittings that go into them. A dual stud fitting has a WLL of 1666 pounds, which according to eTrailer.com will secure a maximum cargo load of four times that amount, so the fittings and the L-track would probably handle the load of my Radical. However US Cargo Control also says that L-track is typically used for motorcycles and ATVs which causes some doubt. Additionally, I have always seen E-track or D-rings are used to secure vehicles, never L-track. I think my biggest concern is not the L-track or fittings, but the integrity of the welds and the flooring itself. This might cause the flooring to warp and/or lift which I certainly want to avoid. The extruded flooring is about 1/16 inch thick, and the ribbing adds about 1/2 inch total thickness. I don't know how the flooring is secured to the I-beam crossmembers, but ultimately I don't need to determine this since I decided to go with additional D-rings.
I tow my SR8 in a 20' F/L trailer as well. I use D-rings in the floor and secure them in both directions on the back hubs. I don't tie down my front hubs at all, and that's because the Radical dealer who sold me the car told me that it was easy to bend the tie rods and/or the steering linkage with a bit too much enthusiasm.
On the WLL rating, remember that tie-downs are not about holding your car in place during normal driving. A couple of chocks and putting the car in gear will manage that. Tie-downs are for when you get in an accident to keep the vehicle in/on the trailer. For those cases, as a crash will typically involve multiples of g-force, your tie-down solution should be designed at 5x vehicle weight minimum, and 20x vehicle weight ideally.
I'd like to add one more thing I've overlooked and seen many others miss. Make sure your tie down straps are in good condition and most importantly have clips on then end that have a gate that closes. Don't use the standard cargo straps that just have a hook on the end.
After racing for years I bought a new trailer and made an 11 hour trip. Checked on the car and trailer multiple times but hit a large dip in the road just prior to arriving at the track. After finally reaching the track I opened the door and my car was waiting in my kitchen area. Fortunately the damage to the kitchen wasn't too bad but I spent the next 3 hours doing fiberglass repair to the car in order to race the next morning.
I reused straps that I'd been getting away with for years that just had a hook on the end. When going over the dip in the road it must have been just enough to cause the rear straps to disengage. I always make sure they're tight as well.
We went out that night and bought new straps with the clip/gate on the end that closes the main hook. Don't need to tighten them as much now which is easier on the alignment and haven't had a problem since.
@meatman, I have been told this also. I trailered for quite a while using all four wheel tie downs without any issue. But I did change to a process where I strap the rear wheels from the front and the back to hold the car in place and then I very lightly strap the front wheels. I like that process better.
@meatman, it was continuous improvement. I had been told several times that it was better for the alignment so I decided to add a couple more d-rings to the trailer. Once I tried it I liked it so much I never went back.
... this is in my post from a few days ago in this thread.... my solution for holding down the front... with next to no chance of pulling the alignment out.
Here are some photos of my set up. Brian James 'Race Sports' Trailer.
I use three tie downs per side, two on the rear and one on the front.
To limit the chance of 'pulling on the alignment' at the front, I came up with the idea to run the strap vertically down from the D-Ring, through a turning eye,. and back to the same attachment point that I use for the rear strap that runs forward..... definitely limits the chance of pulling the alignment out... while still holding the front of the car in place.
