just to tie up this thread - i found a much cheaper solution instead.
Using the cheap fuel cap i bought for £60 - with it's 51mm neck, i bought a short piece of fluorlined silicone hose, then an aluminimum 'reducer', 51mm to 38mm neck, 100mm long. Then reattached the old hose from fuel tank to the reducer neck. Job done. Additional pieces were another £30 in total including a couple new jubilee clips.
@rojid ... a lot of jubilee clips and joints.... would this type of hose connector have made the job easier?
that was the 2nd method, would have still required a 2nd part and the same amount of clips - a 38mm connector between that and original hose.
i could only find a few places in UK that did fluorolined hose reducers as opposed to a straight bit of hose, and lead times were weeks, so it was easier for me to get an aluminium reducer instead.
I need to replace my filler neck (quick fill) this weekend on my SR1. Looks like the same part in the SR3 photos shown earlier in the thread. Is it just standard hex screws that hold the filler neck to the body work? What do they screw into, is there some kind of metal plate behind the fiberglass or are they just screwed directly into the fiberglass? Thanks in advance.
you can see from the pictures how the original dry break fuel cap was attached - with rivets against the fibreglass.
The filler cap i replaced it with came with an additional metal backplate so i used small countersunk screws and nuts through the holes made by the original rivets. The holes in the metal plate were not threaded, it was to help create a firmer base for the nut - essentially it acted as a large washer.
You could use any method - rivets again, or screw/washer/nut.
I have a dry break but but either way I have made a project of eliminating rivet drilling from the body panel removal process. I made this ring, welded in 5mm nuts, glued and riveted it to the backside. Button head bolts with spring washers on the outside. Off in a few seconds with an impact drill. MUCH easier to slide filler fitting on and off the fuel hose as I can work both sides with each hand. I also riveted in floating nuts and now use screws for the under roll bar shrouds. (You might be able to tell it is leaf season in Florida 🤨 )
I have a regular fuel cap but filling with fuel seems abnormally slow. is there a trick to getting fuel in these cars?
My car is the same. There is fuel cell foam in the fuel cell, which I suspect causes flow restriction. Without the foam, the fuel will move to the outside during a corner, causing the fuel pump to run dry.
There may be a clever way to arrange the top of the foam such that it does not impede filling the cell, but it would not be worth the trouble of disassembly.
Filling with the basic fuel can is cumbersome and messy. I use Risk Racing fuel cans which allows better flow control with the adjustable breather.
Below is a picture of the fuel cell foam being prepared for the fuel cell. This was from my 2021 SR3 XX which required a baffle upgrade to keep the fuel from rising upward, which is not really worth explaining, however before the upgrade it caused fuel starvation. My guess is that perhaps the piece of foam that is marked "fill" protrudes to the inlet where the fuel is received, causing a restricted flow. In the picture below, the "fill" piece is shorter than the other pieces, which in this SR3 did not have a fuel fill restriction.
If you really want to fix the slow fueling issue, I guess you would remove: left sidepod, seat, fuel cell cover, fuel cell, all of the foam pieces (very carefully to avoid mixing and tearing), and then cut the piece which is below the fill inlet so that there is some space between the foam and fuel cell inlet to allow the fuel to fill the cell without restriction.
